My Crew In Vegas
If your 're itching to get out in the warm sunshine and clean up your car, hold it right there. Charging ahead without the proper know-how can literally ruin your investment. Here are a dozen tips that will help ensure your success:
Wash your car in a carport or shaded area. Direct sun dries the soap too quickly, spotting the paint. It also bakes on the wax so the finish cannot absorb it properly.
Before starting to clean, make sure all supplies are at hand. Don't run out after starting the job. First things first-don't forget to hose down the entire vehicle first. By doing this removes most dirt first.
Before washing that shiny trim, know what it is.
Coated aluminum and chrome plastic with car wash soap. Uncoated polished aluminum or stainless needs a metal polish. Chrome steel can be cleaned with a chrome polish.
When washing and waxing, don't forget the little details, like the inside of the gas cap door and the doorjambs.
Bird droppings, tree sap, and bug splatters are highly acidic and therefore tough on your paint. They're also usually hard to remove. Get them off ASAP with a product especially formulated for this job.
Dish detergent is for dishes. Floor cleaner is for floors. Car washing soap is for cars. Anything else could damage the paint.
Carefully read and follow the directions on each product you use. Failure to do so could result in a mistake that's impossible to reverse.
To rinse your car, hold the hose over the roof and let the water flow over the car's surface. The sheeting action removes more soap and water than spraying and helps to eliminate spotting.
Use towels made of 100% terry cloth or 100% cotton diapers. Wash them in liquid laundry detergent. Avoid liquid softeners.
When drying your car, hold the towel at both ends and drape it over the wet surface. Pull it over the surface toward you. Use a wet/dry vacuum to dry cracks and crevices.
Apply wax to the pad, not the car first. Follow manufacturer's application instructions. Remove wax using long, straight strokes. When then cloth drags, turn it over. Use a smaller, similar motion for polishing.
This article is designed to educate the novice on auto detailing and provide concourse quality detailing tips.
Auto detailing is the process of making an automobile look its best without major dismantling or repainting. But, detailing is much more than a quick wash and vacuuming. Detailing requires careful planning and methods. Today's car detailing is an art.
The following is an overview of proven professional tips and some little secrets learned over the years.
I personally hope this article helps in your detailing efforts. I did hold back a few secrets since my car still competes, but this article will get you well on your way to professional detailing. On our web site is a complete list of some of the commercial products we use on our show car.
Please feel free to contact us as well.
ACID RAIN or WATER SPOTS and PAINT: Don't MIX
What is acid rain, water spots and what is the difference between them? Both can occur on your car's paint finish from a little dew, rainfall or mist from sprinklers. The difference between the two is the damage each create and the difficulty to remove to sometimes impossible.
Water spotting is the less of the two evils here. Water spots leave a film of the droplet area, which had contained salts and rust chemicals when the water dried. Thus after drying, the chemicals etch the paint, leaving an irregular ring on the paint surface. To remove these, you must first wash (use car soap) and dry the vehicle, then follow with a premium polish and wax. For the harder spots use a small amount of white vinegar on a cloth wipe then wipe the area (small section at a time). Following again wash, dry and polish and wax. If you follow the above steps and the spots do not come out or they are not removed, then you may want to consult a professional detailer. Most likely they are not water spots, but acid rain damage.
Acid rain has been blamed for killing lakes and trees, it has found another target‑paint on cars. Acid rain is largely created from emissions sulfur dioxide and nitrogen dioxide are discharged from factories, fossil fuel burning power plants and the internal combustion engines and are altered in the atmosphere. Here the compounds turn into sulfuric acid and nitric acid, which then can travel hundreds of miles before they fall to earth as rain, snow or dust particles. When mixed with a little dew, rain, snow or water mist from yard sprinklers you now have a mixture of Sufic acid on your car's paint finish. I f left on the surface the moisture evaporates and the acid remains. Concentrated by sunlight, the sulfuric acid can become so strong that it will "eat" (etch) through a car's finish. Typical acid rain damage may first look like water droplets (spots, here you must know the difference). Once the damage occurs, it cannot be removed, repaired by just washing. And it is particularly mot correctable on vehicles that have dark or metallic finishes. In some cases, damages appear as a white or black ring with a dull center. Severe cases show pitting and can etch to the bare metal.
"In the United States, the acid rain problem for cars appears most severe in the northeast and southeast, although problems have been reported elsewhere," said Mr. Gallagher, a Du Pont official. "It varies in severity depending on time of year, weather and location," he said. "One day you could have a problem, one year you could have a problem and other times you won't."
Minor acid rain damage can be repaired. First rinse the vehicle and apply a diluted solution of the paint‑safe alkaline solution. Let it soak for five minutes. This neutralization the residual acid is critical. If the acid residue is not neutralized, acid damage can reoccur when the surface gets wet again. Second once the surface is neutralized, rinse and dry the vehicle. Then use an intermediate polish to buff the surface smooth. It is best to use a polish compound that is very well lubricated (oily) so that while you are buffing, you won't burn the paint (by hand or machine). Follow this with a premium wax with "acid rain protectors added". If the acid rain damage is too severe, the only recourse is to have the vehicle repainted.
Now we know what water spots and acid rain can do, how to tell the difference and the corrective action. How can you keep from getting water spots and acid rain? First, you want to keep your car waxed often and on a regular time frame. If the vehicle spends a lot of time outside and not garaged, you may want to wax more often. In a high acid rain area of the country - Every 2‑3 months is something you should at. But if the car is garaged and does see rain ...3‑4 month’s minimum.
Paint finishes (also clearcoat), are susceptible to damage from factors, as diverse as industrial discharges and bird droppings. But in the case of acid rain damage, most car industry experts say the best defense is a simple one, try to wash the car after it rains and keep the vehicle waxed often with a premium product.
Paul Gasparola
Professional Detailing Association member
International Carwash Association member
Z Car Club Association
Angela Brown
Ferrari Club of America member
Professional Detailing Association member
International Carwash Association member
ã 2001 Paul Gasparola – Angela Brown – Avalon Racing
Basic Degreasing and Engine Compartment Detail
OK - This is just Part 1 - This does not cover advanced detailing and concourse preparation. I will have those
articles soon.
cosmoline remover
heavy-duty engine degreaser (water-based)
citric extract cleaner
plastic bags
toothbrush (brass)
plastic wrap
zip ties
hand towels & clean rags
metal polish
masking tape
(2) 1-gallon hand pump chemical sprayer for the proper chemicals and one for water
duct tape
freezer bags
50/50 water & baking soda
rubber dressing
aluminum foil
Under the Hood
In Section 1` we covered 'Basic Cleaning and Degreasing an Engine". Now, let us step into a more in depth
discussion on - "In Depth Engine Cleaning". In this section, we will have more tips than instruction, for this
is the bridge between basic and restoration. Some of the tips we will share will help turn out those absolutely
stunning engines. Also note that at Avalon we work on more than just Z's and Angela restores for Ferrari as
well as other manufacturers, so in essence, some of the tips may not apply for the Z.
NOW LETS BEGIN.....
• Cleaning some areas will stretch your ingenuity. For example, a baby bottle brush dipped in solvent or
cleaner, gets into the individual cells of the radiator grille. A toothbrush and solvent gets into crevices and
"wells" on the front of the engine.
• Don't use protectants on belts or pulleys: it tends to make them slippery
• Radiator and the grille: Finish detailing prescribes a spray repainting unless the radiator is chromed
for most radiators and their grilles. The painting requires just a few spray can passes with high temperature
engine paint (usually black, and usually flat black rather than gloss). The entire hood and fender areas around
the radiator must be scrupulously masked (newspaper and masking tape work well). Anything to avoid disastrous
overspray is required. And with the radiator and its grille, don't spray if there's as much as a whiff of
breeze. Any breeze at all risks overspray.
• NEVER, NEVER - spray the engine compartment or any of its components with a clear lacquer, as some do it
yourself (and even pro) detailers have done. Lacquer or similar finishes may look great, but drive a few miles
and (1) the gleam melts with heat, as may the lacquer; (2) the once clear lacquer begins to yellow; (3) your
risk of having an under hood fire is greatly increased.
• Factory engine stickers add originality. Replace worn and torn stickers with new ones.
• If hoses are black and one bursts, don't replace it with a red one. For that matter, if one broke, the
other is about ready to; replace them both. Same thing applies for the radiator and vacuum hoses as well as the
ignition wires. Add color to the motor. Most engines are equipped with guides for plug wires. It is usually a
bracket attached to a valve cover bolt. The bracket supports a plastic piece that holds each wire in place,
keeping the wires from dangling over the edge of the valve covers. Make use of such brackets to keep wires
neat
• Look on the back sides of the distributor caps clips for scratches and probe into the valleys with a
cotton swabs for dirt and grease. For cars without distributors, clean every crevice you can see.
• The degree of concourse perfection includes removing pieces of grit and debris from the radiator fins
and straightening each fin to near perfection.
BAD IN BLACK - it is sometimes impossible to find the exact "shiny, not flat" black for some engine components.
This is a different mix black than undercarriage aerosol paint. Here's the right
formula for mixing and squirting "eggshell" black lacquer:
PPG
two quarts "mixing black" #386
one quart "universal flattening agent"
one quart "mixing clear #310
use PPG #DDL 16 quick dry thinner or DuPont #3608S thinner.
As a side note we paint all our cars with Spies Hecker only.
Don't use a slow dry thinner. Stir the paint well. It will look very thin due to the clear when stirring but
that isn't a problem. The final color is a perfect match.
• Many original bolts are coated in a black oxide finish, which is resistant to scratching and has a
unique dull finish. To duplicate the finish, paint the bolts with flat or dull black enamel. After the bolts
are dry, carry them inside the house, place them on a disposable foil cookie sheet and slide the works into the
oven. Bake the bolts 25 minutes at 325 degrees. Allow the oven to cool naturally and install them.
• There are a number of under hood components that are held in place by simple sheet metal screws. If the
screw hole is stripped or becomes oversize, it's impossible to tighten it. If there's room you can use a paper
clip inserted in the hole to make it smaller, but how about using gold cad plated sheet metal screws like those
used to secure the slick to the rim in drag racing applications.
• To help fabricate steel lines, use a coat hanger (or welding ord) as a template. This allows you to mock
up the bends before you make the real thing.
• When installing equipment don't use standard "spit" lock washers. Instead, use "elastic stop nuts" or
more commonly, lock nuts with nylon inserts. They do a better job, and unless they are subjected to high heat
loads, never back off.
• If you want detail, don't forget about the steering components and brake parts. You can detail it on the
car, but do it right, disassemble it, Or better still - have it glass beaded and reassemble it with new
seals;
• If your wiring harnesses are good, but are coved with dirt, grease or overspray, use a citrus cleaner to
clean them. If the engine is cosmoline ridden, use a cosmoline remover first. WD-40 will also work for the fine
details. Not only will it remove dirt and grime, it will also make them more pliable. Just remember to check to
see that whatever stripper you use will not harm plastic or rubber. Also, automotive electrical systems work
much better with firewall and frame ground straps in place. They were in place when the car was new, so be sure
to replace them.
• When draining a radiator, it can splash on everything. If you have a fluted petcock, push a 90°
spark plug boot over it, and it will keep the antifreeze from splashing.
• Cheap foam brushes, found at nearly any home supply house and typically used for edging while painting
your house, also make great detailing brushes when cleaning tight areas of a show car. Dipped in vinyl
dressing, these handy tools become a dust magnet that will reach places that your hands won't fit.
The detailing tips and techniques here, have worked successfully for many auto enthusiasts and professional
Detailers. They are not intended to be the last word in detailing, and you are encourages to try different
techniques as you see fit (refer to my other articles on Ph balance and harmful chemicals).
• Polishing and waxing are important tasks that should never be taken lightly. The appearance of virtually
every painted surface in an engine compartment can benefit from a bit of polish and wax, and this will go a
long way toward protecting the paint finish as well. As you dive deeper and deeper into your detail project,
don't be surprised if the day passes by in a flash. Many serious enthusiasts schedule entire three day weekend
for nothing but engine detailing, and frequently find three days are not enough. As for me, weeks are never
enough.
You see, as one part of an engine compartment perks up and stands out, others may start to look worse and
worse. Before long, you might find yourself sticking bolts and screws into pieces of cardboard so you can paint
them, pulling apart grille sections to clean areas underneath, dismantling fan shrouds for cleaning and to gain
access to the radiator to straighten its fins, using an artist's paintbrush to touch up paint stripes inside
valve cover grooves, and turning your attention to other intricate details that winning concourse veterans take
for granted.
Engine Compartment Car Shows and Restorations Concourse d’ Elegance
Section #3 - Engine - Show Car Preparation and Tips
In the final section (3) the tips and tricks may give you an edge to the best in show winners if you are just
starting in the car shows or a veteran. One must now look at restorations and the varying degrees will somewhat
be governed by the restorer's overall expertise, time and money limits. If you wish to go all out then look at
either a custom restoration or restore to original factory specifications. With the factory restoration is
where the concourse winners go. So with that here are some items that may help.
If the paint on the bolts are a factory mark made by a worker to let other workers know it had been torqued and
secured to factory specifications. Factory markings like those are important to concours competitors and those
restoring cars to perfect factory originality. Photos taken before dismantling a restoration will serve as a
reference for reapplying identical marks later.
If your engine compartment had been subjected to repeated multipurpose dressing applications on hoses wires
plastic and rubber pans, chances are surrounding metal body panels are saturated with silicone dressing
residue. In extreme cases silicone has been known to penetrate paint layers and impregnate the metal surfaces.
This is why you do not use an Armoral type product in the engine compartment. In that situation the paint will
require a fisheye eliminator additive when you repaint the engine body surfaces.
The difference between a concourse winner and a consistent fourth place finisher is generally in relation to
the amount of time each person spends taking care of small details. The time and effort is rewarded with first
place.
Perfect gloss and balance uniformity - To balance the appearance of hose clamps adjust each one so its screw
mechanism has the same relative position as the others.
Wiring must be rooted for correct curvature boot position connection angles etc. Wires should not be blemished
with any paint overspray and their gloss should be uniform and subtle.
High gloss on anything is not necessarily good for concourse. This is where a rookie concourse participant
frequently makes mistakes. But at shows where the cars are customs (Ultra mods - hot rods - street rods and
high customs) highly polished engines with a lot of shiny metal then glossy finishes is the norm. The use of
color is more important than gloss.
Use a cotton swab attached to a long wooden handle like those seen in a doctor's office to remove hints of oil
from along an engine gasket edge. This is truly attention to detail. These types of cotton swabs are great for
reaching into extra tight spaces to remove traces of dirt or oil just before judging time.
The heavy cloth covers over hoses on some cars tend to fade into light brown color in time. A small amount of
black shoe polish applied and rubbed in with a soft toothbrush brings the material back to a pleasant and
uniform black finish.
Notice the number of very small parts located throughout the engine compartment. From plastic knobs on top of
the injectors/carburetors to hose clamps, there are a multitude of parts that must be cleaned polished or
dressed in preparation for car shows. The best to approach this type of meticulous engine compartment detail is
by dividing the compartment into a series of small sections. Once one section is completed move on to
another.
One thing that a detailer must have at a car show is their "Final Detail Kit". This is for the last minute
touches.
In this kit it should have some of the following a plastic bag full of clean soft cloth baby diapers, an
assortment of mild polish and wax products, last minute "detailer" products, wide mashing tape used to pull
tint off the carpet and so forth. Some soft tooth brushes, cotton swabs, an assortment of artist's
paintbrushes, touch up paint, a black tip felt marker to touch up minor scratches or blemishes on the black
parts, a bucket of clear water and a cotton wash mitt works best for wiping off areas under the engine
especially for those cars driven or towed in open trailer to the show. We personally carry two tackle/tool
boxes full of detailing tools and three cases of detailing products for pre-show prep. These are a few items
that will be handy at the show.
These are a few items to keep in mind if you are going to car shows. In-depth engine and engine compartment
detailing can be fun and rewarding when it is approached with realistic expectations.
A quick power washing and light scrubbing will improve many engine compartments but those efforts are
short-lived and potentially dangerous to the electrical system of the car. . Along with that hurried attempts
at painting blocks and other engine parts will always look as if only a small amount of effort was put into the
work and offer no more than a flavor of amateurish detailing. As you become more aware of how well your work
efforts are paying off don't be surprised if you end up taking three or four days more than normal to complete
a meticulous and very satisfying quality engine compartment detail.
Plan the job - take your time - enjoy yourself, whether they are for simple self-rewards car show trophies or
Best of Show Concourse d'Elegance awards.
Happy Detailing…………
© 2000 Paul Gasparola and Angela Brown (Member Profession Concourse Detailers Association)
Car Window Tint Removal
Time:
1-3
hours
Materials:
Tools:
Tips: The difficult thing about removing tint is that most film is constructed of two layers of tinted polyester. When you try to peel the film off the glass, the top layer will usually pull right off leaving the second layer behind. This second layer will not peel off, it will just flake and tear like a price tag.
Step
1:
To overcome separation between layers you must soften the adhesive so that both layers peel at the same time.
This is very important, if you peel the just the top layer, you may as well just use razor blades as there is
no way to peel the second layer off without picking at it for a few hours. You MUST try to peel both layers at
once.
NOTE: You are more than likely to damage one or more of your defroster lines, when this happens, the cut line will not work anymore. Some cars have radio antennas mounted alongside the defrosters made of the same material. If you damage these, your radio antenna will not work! Be careful! Taking it to a tint shop to be done greatly increases the odds of saving the lines, but even a tint shop cannot promise to save your lines, sometimes the film is just too far gone.
Step
2:
First, clear the window of any obstructions, like the brake light, speaker covers etc.
Step
3:
Next cut open the garbage bag so that it will be big enough to cover the entire window. Spray some water on the
outside of the back window and the lay plastic bag over the glass. Cut away excess plastic so that it is now
roughly the same shape as the glass.
Step
4:
Next, lay a tarp over rear deck and seat, spray ammonia liberally on the inside of the back window. (Ammonia is
very strong, I suggest you hold your breath during this step) and cover ammonia soaked tint with the plastic
bag so that it won't evaporate.
Step
5:
Park the car with rear window facing the sun for about an hour. The film should now be ready to peel.
Step
6:
When you are ready to start peeling, leave the plastic in place so the ammonia won’t dry. Get the peeling
started with a razor blade in a corner where there are no defroster lines. Try to peel film off in one piece.
If the ammonia dries as you peel, the glue will get hard again, so spray a bit of ammonia on the area as you
peel.
Step
7:
Once the film is peeled you will need to scrub the adhesive off with ammonia and fine 0000 steel wool.
Mop up scrubbed areas with paper towels before they dry. Finish up with window cleaner and paper towels.
Removing tint from
side windows
Soaking is not necessary here. You may want to use a simple razorblade holder. Cut a notch onto the upper area
of the film so that you have a piece to pull. Try to peel the film; it will probably come off in two or three
pieces.
Spray the remaining adhesive with soapy water, and scrape the adhesive off with a razor blade, avoiding the
edges of the glass until last to keep the blade sharp. You may need to use a few blades as they dull quickly.
Finish up with window cleaner and paper towels. Inspect for missed glue (it’s clear and hard to
see)
If you have access to a Jiffy steamer or similar steam machine, you can make quick work of stripping. Apply the
steam to a small spot for a few moments and use a blade or the spout of the steamer to peel the area just
steamed, when you have enough to hold, just peel slowly as you steam just ahead of the area you are
peeling.
This will bring both layers of tint off and sometimes the adhesive too, without presoaking for an hour.
Your best bet for
removing film from residential glass is to soak them in soapy water instead of ammonia, using the garbage bag
method described above. Let them soak for an hour or so, then you will need to use a wide razor scraping tool
(about 4" wide razor blade scrapers are available at the hardware store) to remove the film and adhesive.
Concentrate on removing all of the film, then spray the window with more soapy water and use a new blade to
remove the left over adhesive. Windex will also work well instead of dish soapy water. Straight ammonia should
not be used as there would be so much; it would be hard to breath in the area.
Happy Detailing,
Angela
Cleaning Products
Remember that cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of a car. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean a car, make sure to follow the manufacturer's warnings and instructions. Always open the doors or windows when cleaning the inside of a car.
Never use the following to clean a car; all of these can be hazardous and can cause damage:
Gasoline
Benzene
Naphtha
Carbon tetrachloride
Acetone
Paint thinner
Turpentine
Lacquer thinner
Nail polish remover
The following materials should not be used unless recommended by the vehicle manufacturer and appropriate for the materials being cleaned:
Alcohol
Laundry detergent
Bleach
Reducing Agents
Paul Gasparola
Professional Detailing Association member
International Carwash Association member
Z Car Club Association
Angela Brown
Ferrari Club of America member
Professional Detailing Association member
International Carwash Association member
ã 2001 Paul Gasparola – Angela Brown – Avalon Racing
Engine Compartment
Car Shows and Restorations Concours d'Elegance
Section #3 ‑ Engine ‑ Show Car Preparation and Tips
In the final section (3) the tips and tricks may give you an edge to the best in show winners if you are just
Starting in the car shows or a veteran. One must now look at restorations and the varying degrees will some
What be governed by the restorer's overall expertise, time and money limits. If you wish to go all out then look at either
A custom restoration or restore to original factory specifications. With the factory restoration is where the concours
Winners go. So with that here are some items that may help.
If the paint on the bolts are a factory mark made by a worker to let other workers know it had been torqued and
Secured to factory specifications. Factory markings like those are important to concours competitors and those
Restoring cars to perfect factory originality. Photos taken before dismantling a restoration will serve as a reference
For reapplying identical marks later.
If your engine compartment had been subjected to repeated multipurpose dressing applications on hoses wires
Plastic and rubber pans, chances are surrounding metal body panels are saturated with silicone dressing residue. In
Extreme cases silicone has been known to penetrate paint layers and impregnate the metal surfaces. This is why you do not use an Armoral type product in the engine compartment. In that situation the paint will require a fisheye eliminator additive when you repaint the engine body surfaces.
The difference between a concours winner and a consistent fourth place finisher is generally in relation to the
Amount of time each person spends taking care of small details. The time and effort is rewarded with first place.
Perfect gloss and balance uniformity - To balance the appearance of hose clamps adjust each one so its screw
Mechanism has the same relative position as the others.
Wiring must be rooted for correct curvature boot position connection angles etc. Wires should not be
Blemished with any paint overspray and their gloss should be uniform and subtle.
High gloss on anything is not necessarily good for concours. This is where a rookie concours participants
Frequently makes mistakes. But at shows where the cars are customs (Ultra mods - hot rods - street rods and high customs)
highly polished engines with a lot of shiny metal then glossy finishes are the norm. The use of color is more important than gloss.
Use a cotton swab attached to a long wooden handle like those seen in a doctor's office to remove hints of
oil from along an engine gasket edge. This is truly attention to detail . These types of cotton swabs are great for
reaching into extra‑tight spaces to remove traces of dirt or oil just before judging time.
The heavy cloth covers over hoses on some cars tend to fad into light brown color in time. A small amount of
black shoe polish applied and rubbed in with a soft toothbrush brings the material back to a pleasant and uniform
black finish.
Notice the number of very small parts located throughout the engine compartment. From plastic knobs on top
of the injectors/carburetors to hose clamps, there are a multitude of parts that must be cleaned polished or dressed in
preparation for car shows. The best to approach this type of meticulous engine compartment detail is by dividing the
compartment into a series of small sections. Once one section is completed move on to another.
One thing that a detailer must have at a car show is their "Final Detail Kit". This is for the last minute touches.
In this kit it should have some of the following.......................... a plastic bag full of clean soft cloth baby diapers, an assortment
of mild polish and wax products, last minute "detailer" products, wide mashing tape used to pull tint off the carpet
and so forth. Some soft tooth brushes, cotton swabs, an assortment of artist's paintbrushes, touch up paint, a black tip
felt marker to touch up minor scratches or blemishes on the black parts, a bucket of clear water and a cotton wash mitt works best for wiping off areas under the engine especially for those cars driven or towed in open trailer to the
show. We personally carry two tackle/tool boxes full of detailing tools and three cases of detailing products for pre-show prep.
These are a few items that will be handy at the show
These are a few items to keep in mind if you are going to car shows. In‑depth engine and engine compartment detailing can be fun and rewarding when it is approached with realistic expectations.
A quick power washing and light scrubbing will improve many engine compartments but those efforts are short‑lived and potentially dangerous to the electrical system of the car. . Along with that hurried attempts at painting blocks and other engine parts will always look as if only a small amount of effort was put into the work and offer no more than a flavor of amateurish detailing. As you become more aware of how well your work efforts are paying off don't be surprised if you end up taking three or four days more than normal to complete a meticulous and very satisfying quality engine compartment detail.
Plan the job - take your time - enjoy yourself, whether they are for simple self‑rewards, car show trophies or Best of Show Concours d'Elegance awards.
Copyright 2000 - Angela Brown - Paul Gasparola
Professional Detailers Association
Fixing paint chips
The repair of a scratch and a chip are the same. A scratch is merely a chip on uni-directional steroids. The only problem with a scratch is that it takes more time to be able to blend in the new paint.
Items you need:
Realize that paint chip repair is a learned skill and should be practiced on an area of the car that is not that visible. The hood and nose are two areas that should be tackled last. Test all cleaners or solvents on the paint prior to usage. I like to use the seam underneath the rocker panels. Apply a little cleaner or solvent to a cloth and rub the seam. If you do not get any color on the rag, then the cleaner/solvent should be safe for the paint. If you do get color on the rag, then you may wish to consider another solvent.
CHIP REPAIR STEPS:
1. At least 24 hours before you want to start, use the rubber glue to attach small 600 grit sandpaper circles (the diameter of the eraser) onto several new pencils. The eraser must be unused and flat on top.
2. Step #1: Wash the car with a quality car wash and dry thoroughly.
3. Paint chips come in two flavors. The worst case has exposed the bare metal, while the less severe has left the original primer intact. Clean the area thoroughly with the a auto wash or Citrus degreaser. If there is rust on the exposed metal, clean off with the pencil eraser. Use a toothpick to gently probe the area and make sure that the edges of the chip are secure and not waiting to fall off and destroy your work. This is an optional step! If you do not feel comfortable with sanding or your paint is one of the new clear-coated finishes, you should jump to step number 5. Take a new pencil/sandpaper tool, dip into clean water and put a few drops of water on the chip area. *SLIGHTLY* rough up the chip and a small portion of the surrounding paint. Lightly turning the pencil will rough up an area the diameter of the eraser and this should be more than enough. Keep the roughed up area as small as possible, the object is to give the new paint approximately 1 mm of old paint to "grab" around the perimeter of the chip and not dig scratches.
4. Move onto the next chip and repeat the above. Depending upon the amount of time available, you may wish to tackle 10-20 chips at one time. Try to stay within the area that may be covered by your box (es).
5. When finished sanding all your chips you are tackling at this time apply a small amount of Alcohol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe each chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Use additional solvent and new area of the rag for each chip. Allow to dry (these are highly volatile and will evaporate quickly with no residue).
6. If the original primer is intact, and "pencil sanding" does not disturb the primer, then skip the next step and go directly to painting (# 9)
7. Make sure that the chip and surrounding area is clean. If not, re-clean with the Alcohol or Enamel Reducer. Pour or spray a small amount of primer into a clean plastic cup. Dip the point of a wooden toothpick into the primer to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the cup. Place the tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow a *THIN* coat of the primer into the depression of the chip. Move onto the next prepared chip. If you have finished priming all your prepared chips before two hours are up, cover with a box, taped down with masking tape and go have a beer. The key is to allow the first coat of primer to dry at least two hours. Dispose of your cup and start with a fresh cup and toothpick. Apply another thin coat of primer to each repair that needs primer. Priming is completed when no metal is visible and the level of the primer is *BELOW* the level of the surrounding paint. This is important! Cover and allow to dry for two hours or until dry.
8. Apply a small amount of Alcohol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe the chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Allow to dry. Repeat for all the chips that are on today's list of victims.
9. If you are using a touchup, shake the bottle thoroughly. If you are using color-matched paint, mix thoroughly and pour a small amount into a clean plastic cup.
10. Dip the point of a new toothpick into the paint to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the bottle. Place the tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow the paint into the depression of the chip. Repeat for each chip. The key is not to use too much paint. Do not re-dip the toothpick. Use only the amount that will flow from one dip. Temptation to add more paint with each application will be almost overwhelming. Fight it!
11. Cover with your paint box and allow to dry 2 hours and repeat 8-12 times till the depression is filled with paint and bulges slightly upward and covers the roughed up area with a thin coating of paint. The first 2-3 coats may not completely hide the primer. This is fine because you have many more coats to go. Fight that urge!
12. The paint application is completed when the new paint bulges slightly upward (a fraction of a millimeter) and had covered the roughed up area with a thin coat of new paint. Allow the paint to dry for at least a week.
13. The touchup paint has been applied to the surface and allowed to dry for at least 1 week, and resembles a minute mound ( __o__ ) (this is exaggerated) on the flat plane of the existing paint. The object is to remove the mound and make the surface of the paint one continuous flat plane. The Finesse Block offers the ability to gently remove only the high spot of the repair. Unlike sandpaper or polish on a rag, the five usable sides of the block are flat and act like a "wood plane" to remove only the elevated areas of the repair. The 2000 grit will not leave scratches.
14. Soak the Block in clean water for 24 hours prior to use. Put a small drop of car wash on the chip repair. This acts as a lubricant for the sanding block. Then gently "plane" the high spot on the paint. I prefer to "plane" in one direction (usually back to front - drawing the block towards me). If the block dries out, re-wet and continue use. When the new and existing paints are blended (smoothed to the flat plane) to your satisfaction, clean the area using a quality car wash and lots of water and then use a quality glaze to restore the high gloss finish. I prefer 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. Don't use a machine on your car, as it deserves to be caressed by hand. Use a machine on your Yugo or.
15. When applying either a glaze or a wax, apply to your soft cotton cloth or applicator pad (don't squirt the stuff on the car) and work in one direction only. Don't go around in circles like dear old dad. Circles are many times the cause of "swirl marks." A front-to-back, back-to-front motion (the way the air flows over the car) will help minimize swirl marks or at least make them less visible. Buff out with a soft cotton cloth. If it looks good, wax with a quality hard wax and you are done.
16. Tip for applying wax. If you are using a quality Carnauba based wax, try applying it with your fingers instead of a pad or cloth. Hold your fingers together and use your fingertips as an applicator pad. The tactile feedback from your fingers will tell you when the wax has been worked into the paint. If grit should lodge under your fingers, you will know immediately and not grind it into the paint. A pad will not allow this tactile feedback and these devil grits become sandpaper. A circular motion of the pad will make a 360-degree swirl mark. All marks on paint are most visible at a 90 degree viewing angle. Thus the front to back marks are most visible from the sides, whereas a circle stands out from any viewing angle.
The question was also asked if clear touchup should be used as a final coat to repair chips on clear coat paint. There are two viewpoints to this question. The purist will say yes, the paint has a clear coat and thus, the repair should also. The process is the same as previously described, except the clear coat is substituted for the last 2-3 coats or paint. The practical world says no. The touchup paint is different from the original paint and is formulated only as a touchup paint. Once it is applied it should, according to the manufacturer, match well enough to be all but invisible. I have found this to be the case with the numerous repairs on the many cars/colors, I have completed. If you are using the original paint as a touchup (I have not done this with a clear coated car), then my understanding is that you should use the clear as a topcoat. The color coat of some paints will many times be relatively dull in appearance. These paints rely on the clear coat to provide the "shine." Try one chip in an area that is not that visible. If the process works, then continue with the rest. If not try the clear coat top layer.
If you have any questions or if you need any further information, please feel free to contact us.
See below for scratches............
Step 1 - Check your owner's manual or a service manual to locate the car's color code. Then get the correct-color touch-up paint from the parts store (usually a base/clear two-part system). You will also need wet/dry sandpaper, polishing compound and a terrycloth towel.
Step 2 - Wash the afflicted area, use wax remover if necessary, and then sand the scratch or nick, feathering the edges to smooth transitions to the undamaged paint
Step 3 - If the nick goes to bare metal, apply primer and wet-sand once the primer dries. Otherwise, dab on the color-matched paint as smoothly as possible.
Step 4 - If the paint is base/clear, apply the clear topcoat once the base has completely dried.
Step 5 - When the clearcoat has cured, wet-sand the repair smooth with the undamaged areas.
Step 6 - Use fine-grit polishing compound to smooth out any imperfections. Finally, wax the car to add a layer of protection.
Know the Difference
If, reading various product labels, you're confused as to what is a "cleaner wax" and what is a "polish" or even "wax", to say nothing of "compounds", you aren't alone. Even their makers only differentiate between "cleaners" and "polishes" or even "waxes" and "polishes". Determining the correct product to use for restoring or maintaining a shine is not always easy. For the most part, there are rubbing and polishing compounds, sealers and glazes, one‑step cleaner waxes and protecting waxes. To help solve this dilemma, the following has been compiled for a quick general reference of these products.
GLAZES:
Often a watery, sometimes transparent liquid, glazes have two primary jobs: to fill in tiny scratches and buffed to shine. Glazes are applied with a 100% cotton cloth and allowed to dry. The glaze dries as a haze then buffed to a shine ‑ a shine, which, almost immediately, must be protected by a wax. If left un-waxed, the glaze and its benefits are quickly dissipated by sunlight.
SEALERS:
Sealers perform and are applied much like a glaze. The chief difference between a sealer and a glaze is... the visible effect on the finish. Glazes give the finish a higher luster than does a sealer. However, sealers generally do a better job of enhancing a finish's depth of color and reflective clarity. Like glazes, most sealers lose their effect unless protected by wax.
LIQUID POLISHES:
Some products are liquid polishes, designed for hand application. These products use cleaning solvents to remove dead paint, stains and imbedded dirt not removed by washing. For light oxidation problems, they work fine and are quick and easy to apply. As with compounds, sealers and glazes, you must understand that these products do not protect paint. You must apply wax afterward for protection. Application can be made in about and followed by a wax or a one‑step cleaner wax.
ONE STEP CLEANER WAX:
For cars with good paint, a one‑step cleaner wax is quick and easy to use. You can remove slight oxidation, hide swirls and give paint some protection, all in a one step application. These are perfect for people who like to maintain their car on a consistent basis. To reach a high level of shine with protection, this is good. For show quality work I do not recommend combination products.
SEALANTS:
Polymer sealant technology provides durability of traditional wax products, but with the introduction of amino functional silicones. Sealants are used mostly for the after‑market. Amino functional silicone fluids posses the ability to cross link, forming a large polymer layer for protection. Car dealerships are famous for offering treatment to customers purchasing a car. Poly coat and similar products combine polymers, silicones and waxes into a single treatment that is supposed to last up to a year, as long as it is rejuvenated according to schedule. "Car Show People" wonder about the effects this type of
Product as it does not allow the paint to breath. Cars should not be covered with anything but carnauba / montan wax. Others wonder about the silicones in polysealants and their effects on future paint jobs or touch‑ups. The silicones penetrate body fillers and metal, making a new paint job or touch‑up difficult. Body shops dislike silicones because they cause "fish‑eyes" in new paint.
SPECIAL PRODUCTS FOR HIGH TECH PAINTS:
Clear coats and urethane paint finishes need special polish designed to remove oxidation, harsh scratches, swirl marks and to restore color. Then to complete the job with a non‑abrasive carnauba/montan based wax. The end result will be a deep paint finish as smooth as silk and as clear as glass.
WAX:
Most waxes are described as their soft or hard wax. Hard waxes, including carnauba (vegetable) and montan (fossil) tend to have a higher melting point thus provide a hard film finish. They promote excellent gloss, color intensity and durability. Softer waxes, including paraffin (mineral petroleum) and beeswax (animal) tend to have a low melting point thus provide a softer film finish. They provide less shine. Synthetically produced (man‑made) wax can do little to improve the paint finish but has ease of use. Good paint needs wax to help keep it oily because paint never really dries. Paint also needs to breathe, and wax helps keep pores open. Wax preserves the paint, inhibiting oxidation. Waxes typically come in hard paste (no water), pre‑softened paste, cream or liquid. These forms are arrived at by a simple adjustment of the raw material. Wax has four important functions: 1) it protects the newly exposed fresh paint or clear‑coat layer, 2) it protects the scratch filler removed, 3) it produces a brilliant, mirror‑like shine; and 4) it weather and water proofs the finish. How durable are waxes? This is open to discussion. A normal wax product might last 30‑45 days. How long depends on the climate, quality of wax used, how often the car is washed, and if it is garaged are many factors to answer to the question. Do once‑a‑year waxes work? A once‑a‑year wax are typically not a wax, but are polymers or paint sealants. They may also have chemical cleaners in them to provide a good bonding to the paint surface. When people see the car's finish losing its shine, they assume it needs waxing. Actually the surface may need polishing and then a good natural wax. The ultra wax job for paints other than high‑tech is two applications of polish, two of cleaner wax and three of carnauba/montan based wax. It will probably take two days to do the job, but the results will be brilliantly noticed.
There you have it straight talk on difference of chemicals. Choose wisely.
Paul Gasparola
International Carwash Association, member
Professional Detailing Association, member
Angela Brown
Ferrari Club of America, member
Ferrari Owners Site, member
International Carwash Association, member
Professional Detailing Association, member
Ó 2002 Paul Gasparola – Angela Brown – Avalon Racing
Detailing Leather Upholstery
Nothing adds a finishing touch to a classic or modern automobile like beautiful leather upholstery. When properly cared for, leather upholstery will last far longer than other materials, and when premium hides are used, will actually become more attractive with age. Cleaning and conditioning leather is similar to caring for you own skin. Leather not only receives the same abuse but its natural, porous texture allows these impurities to absorb directly into the surface.
Leather is unquestionably the most delicate surface in an automobile, and for years it was believed that saddle soap and clean leather were synonymous. What a surprise to discover that something as mundane as saddle soap could actually be detrimental to leather. Saddle soap is actually a mixture of soap and oil and was developed as the final step of leather tanning during the nineteenth century! Inherently alkaline, saddle soap not only does not clean; it can actually weaken and stain modern leather goods. Proper cleaning leather requires the removal of surface contaminants, not grinding them into the surface. This can be safely accomplished with the use of a pH‑balanced cleaned formulated specifically for this purpose.
There are 2 types of leather: vat‑dyed and sprayed‑on dyed. Immersing the hide in the dye does the color the vat‑dyed leather. The process, the color penetrates completely through the leather. Whereas sprayed‑on dyed leather the color is "painted" on. This produces a more even color, but some of the natural grain of the hide is lost and the overall life of the leather is diminished. A painted‑on dye will wear off at the stress points. This may look like dirt build up, but looking close the dye will be gone. Most of the vat‑dyed leather has came out of Europe. U.S. and Japanese manufacturers tend to stick to the sprayed‑on dyed leather. On the other hand, many late model U.S. car leather are coated with a protective plastic. The plastic, usually a PVC (polyinylchloride), prevents penetration of any of the various leather cleaners and conditioners. Treat vinyl‑coated leather exactly as you'd treat vinyl upholstery. As for leather cleaners/conditioners so essential for "raw", uncoated leather? Forget them. They can't get through the protective plastic barrier. To test whether your leather upholstery is "raw" or plastic‑coated, apply a few drops of clean water to the leather. If the water is easily and quickly absorbed, the leather is uncoated; if the droplets aren't absorbed, the leather probably has a protective costing.
To safely clean leather you will need a neutral pH cleaner (between 4.5 and 7.5 pH) and a leather conditioner suitable for upholstery. Cleaning and conditioning leather upholstery is similar to bathing yourself out of a bucket on a camping trip. You need water to do the job, and you need to use the right amount of it Soaking is not required and can increase drying time a lot.
Five Steps to Clean Leather
1] Prior to cleaning, vacuum the car's interior completely to remove any dirt and dust. The small dirt that accumulates in upholstery stitch lines damages the threads, eventually cutting them and shortening their life.
2] Using your leather cleaner, clean one section of the interior at a time, such as a seat back on one side, then the other.
3] Using lukewarm water, leave as much water in your cloth or sponge as if you were going to wash your face with soap and water, and apply your cleaner to one section of the interior with a gentle scrubbing motion.
4] After washing this section, rinse your cloth or sponge of cleaner and dirt, wring it out and wipe away the cleaner from the section you have cleaned.
5] Towel the section dry. Continue in this way until all leather is clean and dry.
It's Time to Condition Conditioning after cleaning is most effective because the cleaning process opens the leather pores, allowing the conditioner to penetrate deeper and quicker. Because leather interiors take small amounts of conditioner to properly care for them, premium high‑quality products are your best choice.
Apply your leather conditioner to a slightly damp cloth or sponge and wipe it onto the leather.
• Dry older, neglected leather can benefit if the conditioner is gently massaged into the hide. Applying
multiple light coats of conditioner is better than soaking the interior in one massive application when
bringing beck dry leather.
The entire leather interior of the car should be treated and allowed 20to 30 minutes to absorb the oils
and preservatives.
After this time, use a dry, clean towel to vigorously rub down all of the leather surface and stitch lines
to remove any excess conditioner.
After cleaning and conditioning, the interior should be allowed one to three hours to air dry,
depending on the outside temperatures and humidity.
Q. Why is it important to use leather cleaners versus all‑purpose cleaners on leather Interiors?
A. To avoid stripping the color or altering the state of the leather while removing the surface oils that trapdirt, the cleaner must be the correct pH level made of non‑alkaline cleaning agents. The pH level for leather is neutral, between 4.5 and 7.5. I f the pH level of leather is elevated, such as by the use of a detergent like 409, with a high alkalinity, the life of the leather will be critically shortened as the bond between hide protein and its tanning agent becomes unstable and lost. Saddle soap was once thought to be good leather cleaner, however, due to its high amounts of oils, high pH (alkalinity) and its manner of use-rubbing it into the leather‑is ineffectual and damaging. An effective cleaner will break‑up and remove oils that trap dirt in leather, has a strong foaming action to lift out the embedded dirt, and won't damage the appearance or life of the leather. 1t is important to understand that each unit of pH measure is a unit of 10. So, of an ideal leather cleaner has a pH level of 5.5, and a all‑purpose cleaner has a pH of 13, that the all‑purpose cleaner is 75 times too strong to use safely on leather.
Paul Gasparola
Professional Detailing Association member
International Carwash Association member
Z Car Club Association
Angela Brown
Ferrari Club of America member
Professional Detailing Association member
International Carwash Association member
ã 2001 Paul Gasparola – Angela Brown – Avalon Racing
Removing Swirl Marks
Tools & Techniques you need to erase them.
First a little education:
Before you become successful at eliminating paint swirls, or “mico mirring”, you need to understand what goes into the paint finish. There are many differences in the paints you encounter. These variations determine the severity of swirls in paint and the process required to remove them.
The first step is to identify if the paint film is the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) finish applied by the auto manufacturer, or has it been refinished by a body shop or other aftermarket painter.
OEM:
There are differences in the paints used by manufacturers, some use 1k (one component) urethanes on all models, while others use 1k on some models and 2k (two components) on others. The test in systems for today’s 1k and 2k OEM clearcoats is usually a melamine/acrylic system. This is also referred to as polurethane enamels. Regardless of components, both systems are subject to etching, scratching, chipping and swirls.
Paint Finishes:
Here is all the data you need on paint finishes:
Finding information about the thickness of paint finishes from both vehicle manufacturers and paint suppliers can be tricky with the answers varying as much as the vehicles do. The base coat and clearcoat thickness can effect the way that you work on a particular vehicle. Below is what two of the major paint manufacturers had to say about paint finishes for the car manufacturers they supply. Then I will outline what the manufacturers actually use.
PPG:
Clearcoat 2 mils thick
Basecoat .6-1.5 mils thick depending on the color of the car.
Single stage 2-3 mils thick (primary process used for many red, white and black cars)
PPG does not recommend a particular type of wax to use on its paint finishes, although it does recommend not to wax within 60 days of the cars purchase date. PPG recommends following the washing procedures described in the owners manual for that particular car. PPG is the major paint supplier to virtually all of the major manufacturers including Ford, GM, Nissan, Chrysler and Toyota. Product may vary by plant and location
Dupont:
Clearcoat 1 – 1.5 mils thick
Basecoat and Clearcoat combined 3-4.5 mils thick
Single stage 3-3.5 mils thick.
Dupont recommends waiting 90 days before waxing a new vehicle and does not recommend a specific process or regime for caring for the finish.
The average clearcoat on a car is around 2 mils thick. It is highly recommend to follow the washing and car of the finsih of the car in other articles we have written as these are tested for that finish.
Let’s get a little more specific on finishes as it relates to Nissan’s:
Total thickness: The maximum is 5-6 mils, but some finishes might be as low as 3.75 – 4.5 mils. These thickness ranges account for monocoats and base/clearcoats.
Pearls, or three coat process: 6-7 mils. This process includes a base, pearl and clearcoat.
A base rule to follow for Nissan vehicles is that each coat – including the e-coat, primer, base and clearcoat is 1.25 mils thick. Horizontal surfaces such as the hood and roof are a little thicker than the vertical surfaces including sides. Although Nissan advises that when using wet sand, DO NOT remove more than .5 mils.
Nissan uses several paint manufacturers including Akzo-Nobel (Europe), BASF, Sherwin-Williams, DuPont, Herbert’s, ICI (Europe), PPG and the only paint we use in our shop Spies Hecker. Only some cars made for Europe used Spies Hecker..
Now that we are educated a little, lets move forward to the problem of swirl marks. I bet you though I would never get there. At least I did not go through each manufacturer.
Refinished Paints:
Collision repair centers select the brand and quality of the refinish material based on many criteria such as recognition, service, industry preference and cost. We personally only use Spies Hecker as it is in our estimation the finest paint known. Most major paint companies offer their lines under more than one brand name. They have their premium line, constructed of better resin systems and pigments. The lower priced line is not chemically constructed the same way as the cost of raw materials dictates the final selling price. Part of the difference between a good shop and an excellent shop. These refinish materials are at the mercy of the painter - the collision repair center (body shop) must get the vehicles in and out quickly in order to make a sizable profit. Custom (concourse shops) charge more, use better products and processes and work on quality not quantity. The painter may also elect to add additional accelerator (hardener), change to a faster or slower dry thinner or increase the heat for curing in the booth. These are all tricks to increase volume.
Finally - THE MAJOR QUESTION AT HAND – “What causes swirl marks? How do I remove them, especially on dark cars?”
Swirl marks are caused by micro scratches on the finish, often caused by the use of bad hand or buffer techniques with the wrong type of polishing pad and/or wax polish. Hand application that appears to leave swirl marks are often faulty washings, drying towels and/or techniques. Other causes are applications of an inferior wax and polish. The First step in removing swirl marks is having the proper equipment. Your equipment should include tools to diagnose as well as perform the work.
The two most important diagnosis tools are a 30X lighted magnifier and a paint thickness gauge. If you had remembered in the earlier part of this article, paint thickness should not be removed beyond 3/10 mil or 1/1000th of an inch.
Chemicals:
You should know too, that swirl mark removers fall in to categories – (I) eliminators and (ii) fillers. Eliminators have light abrasives that break down and will eliminate the swirls. The filler is just that, it only fills swirl marks. After a few car washes, the swirls will be visible again. Modern compounds utilize new families of abrasives whose particles continually break down as you buff. These products will not work satisfactorily if you attempt to use them with a buffer above 1700 RPM. They will break down too quickly and go to a polishing size particle. If you have never used a buffer – do not attempt to try removal until you gain experience and stay with hand removal only. Some paint finishes will only gain it’s best potential with hand techniques.
Polish or Light Scratch / Swirl Remover:
This category creates even more confusion. When choosing the correct product. This includes the pad and or cloth used. Some consider “glazes” a polish, but they simply create an optical illusion by covering up paint blemishes. They simply wash off and then leave the imperfections for all to see.. Other glazes (advertised as show glazes) used the morning of the car show is gone by the end of the day. This is caused by UV rays and evaporation. Using this definition to select your polishes and/or swirl removers will save a great deal of confusion, time and provide clarity to you. Most professional detail chemical companies have a product that you can use as a polish or a swirl remover. Therefore, in an effort to reduce the never ending line of retail products, it is in your best interest to use a commercial grade product that is not multi-purpose. An example of a multi-purpose product is a polish/wax or cleaner/wax.
Equipment:
If you are not experienced with machines or new at detailing to a show level, ask for help before using this type of device on your car. You can burn the finish. Keep in mind that anytime you use a high speed buffer with a wool cutting pad and a compound you will put swirl in the paint finish. Swirls put in with a high speed buffer should be removed with a high speed buffer. This becomes a never ending battle. The use of an orbital buffer with good techniques is good BUT on fine paint finishes and on show quality cars nothing can beat the human touch.
Buffers: ( If you must)
Variable speed buffers with speed control of 0-3000 RPMs are used in and by body shops for the finish cut, but if using for swirl mark removal, no more than 1500 RPMs should be used. Too much heat would be created and damage to the paint finish will result. Variable, dual action polishers and the old standard orbital wax machines are included.
Pads:
Never use a white wool four ply yarn cutting pad on any urethane finish newer than 1995. They are too aggressive and create heat very quickly. If you must use a white wool, keep the buffer speed to 1000 RPM and this is a maximum limit. You must also constantly check the paint finish surface temperature. It must be limited to 115 degrees F. Go above 115 degrees and you will create what is called by professional detailers (show quality) and industry representatives as “thermal stress”. Thermal Stress are those long small cracks in the paint that looks like light scratches, but can not be removed by buffing. The Thermal Stress can also be caused by washing a car outside in the dead of winter with cold paint and utilizing hot water. This will not be evident until about a year later. YES – even washing your car wrong will hurt the finish.
Buffing done incorrectly, can cause severe damage or ruin your paint in a very short time. Use a foam pads as they are easier to use and there is less chance of harming your cars finish. If you are using a buffer or polisher – foam pads are the only way to go. Use a foam pad at 1000 RPMs. Foam pads should be kept clean ( for use either by hand or by machine). Contaminate build-up in the pads is a major cause of swirl marks. Take your time, apply the chemical to the pad first, keep the pad fairly flat to the surface. Let the polish burnish away imperfections and use a cross latch pattern. Again, I state the data above if you feel like Tim the tool man Taylor and have to use a machine. Personally – DO IT BY HAND.
By hand works well for swirl using a back and forth pattern – not circular. You can use a polish, paint clense or swirl remover to safely restore the finish. If you have deep swirls (not scratches) you will probably have to use a safe pure polish, followed by a paint clense and then a natural wax for a protective layer. If this process will not remove the swirls you should take the car to a professional to determine if clearcoat restoration or repainting is required.
The HAND:
This brings us to using the hand. Most perfectionists on the show circuits enjoy working the finish by hand. Swirl marks can be removed using correct techniques and quality commercial products. As stated above, the chemicals used should be applicable to both machine and hand usage. The hand technique should require no real pressure if you are using the product correctly. Let the product do the work. To much pressure and you add to your problems.
Always as with waxing, use a back and forth method and work in small areas at a time on the car. By trying to go in circular motions as does the machines, you are more likely putting swirls in the finish. After all is complete, apply your wax as this will enhance and protect your work and more importantly the finish of the car. Two light coats of a non-drying wax is recommended.
In short -----------for the best results follow these steps:
Decontaminate / neutralize the car by washing ( Clay after washing may be required if the surface feels rough).
Know the type finish you are working on. It is important to know if the finish id lacquer, clearcoat or another type of paint. Likewise it is best to know the thickness. You must leave a durable thickness in the paint for protection. The masses will not have a gauge – get one or go to a real professional body shop and ask for a reading.
Select quality products and follow the directions. I do not recommend retail products or gimmick silicone products.
Do not use aggressive pads or products on clearcoat and never get them hotter than 115 degrees F.
Always take you time in the polishing and waxing process.
Repair the swirls – do not fill them. Washing will remove glazes and fillers and allow the swirls to re-appear.
If a detailer skips the polishing step after buffing and immediately applies wax over the swirls it will not remove the swirls.
Inspect the work in good light to ensure all the swirls are removed. Insufficient light add a lot of labor.
So now you have it – the complete story on swirl marks and the removal thereof. Get involved so you can become more knowledgeable when purchasing products.
Copyright 1999 Angela Brown – Paul Gasparola
Pulling off the inside job – Interior Detailing
Interior detailing is far from being merely a routine job but in fact should be more inclusive and exceeding a norm. The major difference between a car’s interior and one’s home is the tiny confines of the beast. Unlike your homes carpets and upholstery or even windows, the cars interior is subjected to extreme heat ( up to 150 degrees in summer ), cold (drop below 0 degrees in the winter) and damaging ultraviolet (UV) radiation threatens everything the sun can reach. Constant care is imperative to a car’s interior to it’s showroom condition and appearance. Anything less may produce a reasonable clean interior, but not one that is detailed.
Begin a complete cleaning with vacuuming is a good idea. If you vacuum after a major cleaning, you will find yourself blowing dirt all over the freshly cleaned interior. Also it is much easier to vacuum loose dirt in doorjams when it is dry as opposed to when it has become muddy from getting wet from washing. One more consideration – if you start with vacuuming, you won’t be pulling an electric cord through water that has puddled in your driveway.
The first rule for clean interior’s fabrics, upholstery and carpets is to invest in a “real” vacuum, not a toy. These vacuum machines are invaluable. A household vacuum is not adaquate. Use a crevice tool on the end of the vacuum cleaner hose. A plastic crevice tool is preferable rather than metal which, if bent, or sharp risks tearing the fabric or cutting stitching. This tool will reach into tight seams, around seat belts beads and under seats. An old hairbrush works well to break loose pine needles stuck in the nap. You can use a soft brush attachment when cleaning the headliner. Vacuum the headliner – but gently. Headlining is fragile: exert minimum pressure. Do not forget the sun visors and the brackets holding them in place. The floor mats will be removed and vacuum the carpets. Move the front seats to get at the carpet underneath. A toothbrush can be used along with the vacuum to dislodge lint and dirt along the dreams of the seats and carpet pads.
After vacuuming but before cleaning and washing carpets and fabric upholstery, remove any spots and stains. The fabric used for cloth seats and carpets is similar to some fabrics used for household furnishings. The exception may be those seats especially treated to reduce flammability. If possible, try to identify what the spot or stain is. This will help as to what spot remover to use. This is because some chemicals will “set” a stain. Be sure to follow the instructions on the label before application.
With the spots and stains removed, we’re ready to shampoo the carpets and fabric seats. Most common carpet cleaners tend to be “wet” formulas. Even when a wet-dry vacuum or extractor is used to pull out most of the water. Carpets and fabrics are still pretty wet and may need several days to completely dry. The spray-on foaming aerosol shampoo formulas do a credible cleaning job without the wetness. There is also a lower chance of mildew. Again be sure to follow the label instructions prior to use. After shampooing, a wet-dry vacuum again will help to dry the areas cleaned. If moisture in not completely dried, it will become a source for future mildew, odor and deterioration.
Start with the rear seats and carpets then move to the front seats and carpets. If your car has fabric on the doors, treat them as you do the seats. Seatbelts should not be overlooked. Check the owners manual if you question proper soap usage. Allow the belt to dry before returning to its case. To keep seatbelts stretched while cleaning and drying, tie one end of a string to the end of the belt and the other end to the steering wheel, door handle or what ever is convenient.
Once the carpet and fabric upholstery is dry, treat it with a fabric protectant. It is designed to help cloth resist stains and liquid absorption. To apply, you simply use it directly on the now clean, dry carpet or fabric. Spray in a uniform pattern, following the instructions on the label. If a powdery white residue appears after drying, simply brush or vacuum away. This is caused by over application. These types of products are recommended for all types of fabric except leather, vinyl and imitation suede.
Now most of you might say – “Hey – I’ve got leather or vinyl or suede – What about me!” Well the next part of this tip sheet is for you.
Whether upholstery is leather or vinyl, the first step is vacuuming. A soft-bristled brush and the crevice tool of the vacuum works well together to rid seams of dirt. Note the paint brush bristles can be cut to shorten the length. Reducing bristle length makes the paintbrush a more effective detailing tool. For safety sake, tape the metal part of the brush to prevent a cut on the leather or vinyl. Be sure to fold the front seats forward and vacuum the exposed areas.
Vinyl is the most common interior covering, but is prone to mildew and UV damage, despite claims to the contrary, fades noticeably. The best example here is the seat backs. Vinyl collects grime faster than other upholsteries (you can actually feel the grime). The key to cleaning vinyl is to use vinyl upholstery shampoo and a small scrub brush. Be careful, as spray-on and wipe-off cleaners, all purpose degreasers, and some other household cleaners can dull or streak vinyl. Chemical ingredients can vary from cleaner to cleaner. Use one formulated for vinyl, and always follow the suggested dilution. Special vinyl cleaners do more than merely clean: Most give a sheen to vinyl.
Look closely for dirt around metal trim and a real problem area is under the folding seats. A stiff detailing brush with the shampoo is needed for deep cleaning here. All areas throughout the interior needs attention. These include door panels, under the dash, the dash itself and sun visors. For vinyl or plastic headliners, use a terry covered sponge or dampened (not wet) towel with shampoo. Work front to back wiping until clean. But for very dirty, light covered headliners can be cleaned using a teflon covered sponge dampened with a vinyl cleaner.
After cleaning, apply a protectorant that provides a barrier against moisture and environmental exposure. Select a product that leaves a smooth sheen so that it does not attract dust or dry out the surface which causes cracking.
Now you ask ------ what about Leather
Leather is unquestionably the most delicate surface in an automobile. It is perishable. Neglected it will harden, crack, fade and deteriorate into sand like granules. Body oils, clothing dyes and cigarette smoke can cause discoloration. Proper cleaning should remove surface contaminants, not grind them into the surface. This can be safely be accomplished with the use of a cleaner formulated specifically for this purpose.
During the final step of tanning the hide goes through a process called “fat liuorong” where it is lubricated with special oils to restore moisture and flexibility. If this moisture balance is not maintained, leather will become dry and brittle in a short time. Remember that leather should not be treated as if it were vinyl. Use a low pH (non alkaline cleaning agent) cleaner with no degreasers. The pH level for leather is neutral, between 4.5 and 7.5. If the pH level for leather is elevated, such as by the use of a household cleaner with a high amount of alkalinity, the life of the leather will be critically shortened and strip the dye color. An effective leather cleaner will break up and remove oils that trap dirt in leather. Do not scrub to hard to avoid removing dyes. Immediately condition the leather after cleaning to replace oils lost in the cleaning process. The conditioner lubricates and restores leathers suppleness and it’s rich natural luster.
In closing, the processes described in this article are not intended to be the last word in car interior cleaning. Clearly I did not go into detail on the non fabric parts on the interior. However, these are proven methods that work for some concourse winners and professional detailers.
RESTORATION BASICS
Black is black, right? Wrong!
It is commonly believed that black is universal or always the same. It is not. Until recent years, that was true of gloss black used on automobile exteriors. Even here, recent developments have produced variations such as metallic blacks
Of prime importance to restorers are the black finishes used on many of an auto's components. As a car show judge, I often see gloss black, ever as shiny as that used on the exterior, applied to firewalls, wheel wells and other under hood components. In most cases, this is wrong.
The variations in black are typified by paint supplier listings. For example, the Eastwood Company offers chassis black, radiator black, underhood black, and satin black. Similarly, an examination of paints in hardware and automotive supply stores offer more black paint names. What's a restorer to do?
This column will provide some technical and historical background about the variations in black paint coupled with some experience‑proven tips to guide you in applying the correct black finish to the various parts of your restoration project.
Technical background
The variations in black colors in automotive components are differentiated by the degree of gloss. Paint gloss is measured, using specialized instruments called gloss meters, in degrees of the angle of light reflected from the source. Hence, degrees are the measure of reflectivity and range from zero degrees (a flat) to 100 degrees (full gloss). In paint practice, some prefer to specify the degree of gloss as percentage of full gloss. Therefore, 100 percent gloss is the same as 100 degrees gloss—both mean full gloss. Similarly, a 60 percent gloss is the same as 60 degrees gloss.
Any type of paint—enamel, lacquer, their acrylic modifications, and urethanes—and any color, not just black ran be mixed to any degree of gloss by adding an amount of the correct flatting agent to the base paint. To achieve a specified end result, a paint mixture is prepared, a test panel coated, and the resultant finish measured with a gloss meter. It is a trial and error process to obtain the correct volume of flatting agent to be added to the volume of base paint. Paint manufacturers provide these findings in the mixing formulas that they supply to their distributors. Alternatively, a manufacturer with the desired degree of gloss who, in turn, determines the appropriate volume of flattening agent for the paint mixture. Using degrees of gloss instead of percentages avoids a common misinterpretation that the percentage is a measure of the amount of flattening agent added to the base paint.
Without a gloss meter, which costs between $2,000 and $3,000, exact measurement of degrees of gloss is not possible. Even those who use specifications and instruments to obtain a desired result allow for variation. This variation exists because application methods—spraying or dipping—application conditions, such as air volume, gun‑to‑object distance, humidity, and solvent:paint ratios, all affect the final result.
There are four gloss terms that enjoy standard usage in the coatings industry:
Gloss
Semi-Gloss
Eggshell
Flat
But these terms do not prescribe a single numeric degree of gloss, but rather a range. The accepted ranges in degrees of gloss for each term follow:
Gloss = 100 degrees gloss
Semi-Gloss = 50-60 degrees gloss
Eggshell = 20-30 degrees gloss
Flat = 0 to 5 degrees gloss
Distinguishing between these ranges can be done by eye, a gloss meter is not required. Conversely without a gloss meter, it is not possible to determine if a semi‑gloss black is 50 or 60 degrees gloss.
There is another term that is commonly encountered in coatings literature—satin. This term is a marketeer's term and is not employed in technical discourse; theoretically, satin could apply to any degree of gloss other than 100. However, over time, it has come to be commonly associated with paint with a gloss in the eggshell range.
Historical background
The black paint applied to frames suspensions, underhood components and the like was intended primarily for protection. Economy was the driving force. Chassis Black came to be a generic term for a fast drying enamel, sometimes containing coal tar, specifically intended for use on frames and suspension parts. As a cheap coating, there was little concern about the degree of gloss although it is typically mixed without a flattening additive. It did not age well and soon lost its gloss. Additionally, the condition (degree of smoothness) of the substrate to which the paint is applied also affects the paint's reflectivity.
Using paint with less than 100 degrees gloss had another benefit; it obscured manufacturing marks. Marks remaining from drawing, stamping, and forging remained; usually there was no attempt to remove them. Accordingly, many variations in gloss are found on automotive components.
During the muscle car era, a special black paint called performance black was widely used for hood stripes and similar applications. It was typically lacquer‑based, flat in gloss, and employed additives to resist glossing.
An automobiles components were produced by many different suppliers. Even if the same supplier was used, that supplier might have had more than one manufacturing plant. As previously mentioned, the method of application also affected the degree of gloss. Components were delivered and placed into bins along the assembly line and mixed with those from different lots and, potentially, different suppliers. Even within a particular car fine tend car model in a given year, there were differences between assembly plants. Therefore, conditions are ripe for variations to exist.
In absolute terms, there is no one specific degree of gloss that is correct. However, generally, the ranges of gloss described above held true, i.e., components intended to be semi‑gloss will be in that range in most cases. But, like a lot of other aspects of car manufacture, fasteners for instance, production was most important and a batch of components would not have been rejected from use just because the degree of coating was not "right."
Restoration guidance
Determining what is right is the first step. Your car is often the best source of information. If you intend to show the car for judging by a particular club, then you should follow the guidelines that club supplies. If you can locate degree of gloss information for a component on a car line in the same time period, it can be reasonably assumed that the same component in another line by the same manufacturer, e.g., GM, would be finished the same way, unless the component was unique to a particular car line or model.
With the right degree of gloss determined and the parts prepared— cleaned, primed, etc.—you are ready to paint. You can mix your own paints in the trial and error method that manufacturers use to determine their specifications using gloss black and flattening agents from your paint supplier. I find, however that a little careful shopping can eliminate this step and provide a source of ready mixed paints in bulk and spray cans that are either enamel, lacquer, or epoxy‑based. Remember, your car will be judged visually, so if you stick with the four ranges—flat, eggshell, semi gloss, and gloss—the end result will replicate "as manufactured conditions".
If you have a large number of pieces to paint at the same time or ones that are large in size, such as wheel well liners, hoods, etc., then a spray gun can provide the best finish. However, for small lots and small pieces, I favor spray cans. They offer convenience, speed, and minimal overspray and minimize waste and cleanup time.
Remember to replicate "as manufactured" conditions, apply just enough paint to provide full coverage with no "holidays."
Copyright 2000 Angela Brown - Paul Gasparoila
Avalon Racing
Show Detailing
andthe
Basics of Show Car Care
This article is designed to educate the novice on auto detailing and provide concourse quality detailing tips for the experienced. Not all the tricks below will apply to Z’s
The Basics:
Auto detailing is the process of making an automobile look its best without major dismantling or repainting. But, detailing is much more than a quick wash and vacuuming. Detailing requires careful planning and methods. Today’s car detailing is an art.
The following is an overview of proven professional tips and some little secrets learned over the years.
Washing:
Waxing:
Engine Compartment:
I personally hope this article helps in your detailing efforts. I did hold back a few secrets since my car still competes, but this article will get you well on your way to professional detailing. On our web site is a complete list of some of the commercial products we use on our show car.
Please feel free to contact us as well.
TIRES and WHEELS Part II
Cleaned and dressed tires and wheels make a clean car look well maintained, highly detailed, and sharp. Studies show that tires are among the first things people look at after a detail job. There is an art to cleaning tires and wheels. Follow these instructions for the "can't miss" detailing job.
There's more to cleaning tires and wheels then one might think. Exposure to ultra‑violet (UV) light causes exterior rubber to fade, crack and eventually lose its mechanical properties. This process is called photo‑degradation. Road pollution and brake dust present another danger to tires and wheels. Tires should be cleaned occasionally to prevent photo‑degradation and to remove brake dust, road oils, grime and other contaminants, which will cause decay or a browning effect on the tire surface.
Modern tire sidewalls have a coating that help protect them from normal wear and tear. Problems arise when caustic wheel cleaners and other harsh chemicals remove this protective coating. Modern wheels on the other hand also have problems. Manufactures now apply protective coatings to wheels. This protective coating provides some measure of protection but is susceptible to abrasion, acids, and the metal residue (brake dust) created by modern high‑performance brake pads. Brake dust etching, brush scratches, chemical erosion from road salts and corrosive cleaners are common culprits of wheel destruction. Since ignorance of these hazards can cause irreparable damage, learning a few simple facts may eliminate some very expensive mistakes.
Therefore, the first step to reclaiming the original tire luster is a proper cleaning with an appropriate rubber cleaner. Use a cleaner that is biodegradable, phosphate‑free, non‑abrasive and nonflammable. Never use wheel cleaners containing strong acids, bleach, alcohol, or solvents. You cannot remove wheel grime with a spray‑on and hose‑off product and not risk serious damage to anodized, clearcoated, chrome‑plated, or aluminum wheels.
Most tire cleaners contains chemicals that whitens whitewalls and white letting. This type of cleaner tends to turn black walls an ugly gray or gray cast to the black part of the tire. The bleach used in a lot of products can also damage the finish on the wheels. The rougher the cleaning application, the more chance you take damaging the tire or wheel. Powdered cleaners also contain a bleaching agent. Non‑bleach cleaners are preferred and are compatible with alloy rims. It is much better overall to clean tires and wheels with a product which states “no lye” or bleach and clean them 2 times than clean once with a harsh damaging cleaner.
There are wheel and tire cleaners that guarantee and preserve wheel surfaces and surrounding rubber. These types of cleaners may be sprayed directly onto the wheel and agitated with a soft scrub brush to insure even distribution and thorough cleaning. Wheels with narrow slots and spokes can similarly be cleaned by using a super‑soft, specialty brush. Avoid brushes with very stiff brushes. They can scratch rubber as well as wheels. Use paint brushes to reach those areas around lug nuts and valve stems. Use them in the crevices and slots on special wheels. Toothbrushes work well on wire wheels and on those parts of the wheels, which attract dirt build‑up.
Always clean one wheel at a time. This prevents the cleaner from drying on the wheel. Never clean a wheel when it is warm or hot from driving. High temperatures increase the activity of chemicals and can cause damage to the wheels, warp brake rotors or prevent the cleaners from working normally. Streaking and staining can result if some cleaners are applied to hot wheels.
The second step to restoring natural luster on the rubber tire is the application of a high‑quality rubber dressing containing UV stabilizers, which supplement the UV protective action of the carbon black. Choose a dressing that's not too sticky or apt to sling off on the car. Always clean tire before each application of dressing. Unfortunately, some folks never clean the tires. The consequence? Brown blackwalls or yellow whitewalls.
All rubber should have a rich, dark sheen and be smooth to the touch. Properly maintained, it will enhance the overall appearance of the automobile. With wheels, even with regular attention, highly polished wheels will require a specialized product to restore lost luster. Choose a polish/wax designed for a particular finish. Never use a chrome polish on aluminum or an aluminum polish on clearcoated wheels. Damage will occur. Lacquer clearcoats should be cleaned with the same products designed for automotive paints.
Proper tire and wheel cleaning only requires some common sense, a little effort, and an educated choice of products. Protect and care for your tires and wheels; they are vulnerable and expensive part of your automobile.
Happy Detailing
ã 2001 Paul Gasparola & Angela Brown
Members Professional Detailers Association – International Car Wash Association
DON’T THROW IN THE TOWEL YET!
Towels are a vital component of every detailer's work. From drying a car after washing, to final polishing, they are a tool no detailer can do without. But here is the in's and out's to better toweling.
Let me answer a few questions
Which method is best for drying?
What are the different methods of drying for cars?
What are the advantages and disadvantages of each method?
SQUEEGEE:
ADVANTAGE‑ Quick, efficient displacement of water.
DISADVANTAGE‑ Genuine risk of marring surface in the process, and perceived risk of not being safe.
REAL CHAMOIS (ANIMAL MADE)
ADVANTAGE‑ Reasonably absorbent of water. Soft material when wet and new.
DISADVANTAGE‑ Expensive, and not free‑rinsing. Debris has a chance of becoming caught, risking surface mar. Also seen as socially unacceptable use of animal hides.
SYNTHETIC CHAMOIS:
ADVANTAGE‑ Stronger and more water absorbent than real chamois. Free rinsing and inexpensive.
DISADVANTAGE‑ Debris has a chance of becoming caught, risking surface scratches.
COTTON TOWEL:
ADVANTAGE‑ Absorbent soft terry loops provide cushioning. 100% cotton is the most absorbent and safest choice. Superior for removing debris.
DISADVANTAGE‑ Polyester blending compromises absorbent and softness. Towels require frequent laundering.
Towels are the true choice of professional detailers but they need care and the care of the car's surface. To dry your car, most feel they don't have to be a rocket scientist, cause you just drag the towel across the surface until dry. Right! But wait just a minute. There are a few no‑no's in drying with a towel on your car's surface.
1] Never use a towel with polyester blend in it. Polyester, no matter how soft the towel feels, is hard at the microscopic level. Polyester scratches show up as "towel marks" which is swirl marks only longer.
2] The towel manufacturer care tag should be checked for the cotton and/or polyester content. if the tag is missing then test a edge of the towel. This is done by holding a match on the towels. if it melts and a black ball is formed thus polyester content
WINDOWS: The most popular towel for cleaning windows is a truck surgical towel. Usually blue and 100% cotton, these towels are extremely low in lint and very absorbent. They are also made up of thin material, for reaching corners.
INTERIOR/DASH: Huck/surgical towels work well for this application. Some detailers use a treated dust cloth for the dashboard. These cloths are treated with mineral oil to pick up dust, unlike conventional towels that may simply re-circulate the dust.
UPHOLSTERY/CARPET: Terry towels work well due to their absorbency. They also work for spotting stains on carpet or upholstery. A lower cost towel or inexpensive terry pieces are appropriate for these applications.
WHEEL WELLS/DOOR JAMBS: Low‑cost terry towel works well for cleaning wheel wells and door jambs. Darker colors help hide the dirt. Some detailers prefer to use an inexpensive paper wipers to really clean greasy parts. With paper wiper, you don't have to worry about ruining good towels, and you can simply dispose of the wiper when you are done.
POLISHING; Diapers work very well. They are soft and absorbent. Other popular cloths for polishing include soft T‑shirt material and flannel.
LAUNDERING TIPS: Wash window towels separate from towels used to wax vehicles to avoid getting any wax on windows. Greasy rags should not be washed with other towels, especially towels used to clean interiors.
Good towel habits will help prolong towel life and ease drying. If you want a new towel to work like an old one, you have to break it in properly. So give the towels a "break‑in". All new towel are treated with "sizing", which gives them the bright finish and stain resistance that most people look for. You need to break this sizing down without ruining the towel.
Always wash and dry before putting them into service. NEVER USE BLEACH OR FABRIC SOFTNER. Wash towels with one cup of white vinegar and 1 cup of detergent. This will help release lint, "break the towels in", and keep them fresh. YOU MUST MACHINE DRY ALL TOWELS before their first use! Nothing will bang more lint out of the towel than a few good spin cycles in the dryer. Remember to clean the lint trap before and after ‑‑‑' drying cycle. It is also useful to soak in a cup of ammonia and several gallons of water. This will dissolve any oils or treatments in the fabric that inhibit absorbency. Another good wash formula is to fill the washer, add 1 cup of ammonia and soak them overnight. The next day wash the towels with 1 cup of detergent and distilled vinegar and dry them. It is important to use warm water and avoid bleach. Keep in mind that colored towels, because of the chemical penetration into the fiber, are less absorbent than white towels.
7 SUGGESTIONS OF NEW TOWEL BREAK‑INS
(1) Wash towels two or three times before putting them into service.
(2) Use warm water. if warm water is not available, bring towels to the Laundromat or send them out to a commercial laundry.
(3) Dry the towel completely, making sure you empty the dryer's lint catcher.
(4) Do not use bleach
(5) Remember that the same reason wax makes water bead up on an automobile is the way towels exhibit "non‑absorbent" characteristics even after they've been "on the line". Vinegar will help to remove wax from towels, making them more absorbent.
(6) Water softeners and fabric softeners added to the washing also reduces a towel's absorbency.
(7) If you add a surfactant to the wash to make a towel more absorbent, you must add it to every wash. There are no lasting effects. It is kind of a trick used in the laundry industry.
Be lint free! While lint may not sound like a big deal, consider that if you dry the car and it is covered with lint, you have just defeated the purpose of washing the car in the first place. Lint generally occurs in new, just being broken‑in and deteriorating towels. While all towels made from cotton will have some lint, there are a few ways to reduce lint.
Wash towels in‑one of the formulas as stated above. Once the wash is completed, dry the towel completely. Repeat dryer several times as this beats the lint out. Avoid bleach because it breaks down the cotton fiber. Avoid washing old towels with new because the ~ lint may transfer. If you have hard water, consider a water softener because high levels of acid and other minerals may deteriorate towels.
TOWEL TIP: Here's the secret tip of the day‑ Add 1 cup of white distilled vinegar‑not the cider type‑to the first two washes then a cup once a week or so. The vinegar helps remove the musty smell damp towels are known to have.
KEEP THEM SEPARATE:
One way to extend the life of your towels is to separate or "code" them by color, size or style. Additionally, different towels should be used for different parts of the car. One reason is to avoid residual chemical reactions. For example the combination of chemicals in soaps, waxes and detergents do not mix well with window cleaning solutions. To help break down wax build-up on towels, once every couple of weeks, let them sit in water with 1 cup ammonia. This will break down the wax and grease. Then wash with ammonia and detergent. How long your towels last depends on climate and how well you care for them.
CHOOSE THE RIGHT TOWELS:
Is a larger towel better than a smaller towel?
The answer to this question is based mainly on personal preference. A typical size for a hand towel is 16‑x28. The size of a towel for the body can vary, but many prefer 24"x24" because it can be folded over four times and used again.
THIN vs. THICK TOWELS:
Thin
PROS Fast break‑in period
Can be used for windows
Won't be heavy when saturated
Drys quickly
CONS Shorter life span (deterioration)
Thick
PROS More absorbent once broken in
Good body towels
Longer life span
More drying power per towel
CONS Heavy when saturated must change towels frequently more costly (but last longer)
There you have it, all the facts on towels. Take care of them and they will care for your car. Happy Z motoring.