Paul Gasparola has been doing show cars since 1993. After becoming involved with the Z Car Club Association, Paul was active at car shows around the country.  Paul was the receipient of the ZCCA's and Nissan's Gold Medalion (#12) award in 2000 at the ZCCA National Convention in Las Vegas. His Z32 was the first Z32 to acieve this award after the ten year rule was put into place.  Paul Gasparola and Angela Brown wrote a series of articles specifc to those entering national car shows.

Paul is now the Executive Director of the ZCCA and although not showing the Z33 or Z32 much he still consults on individual owners cars to prepare them for the ultimate honor for Z cars - The Gold Medallion and Gold Cup awards



                                                                                                     
                                                                                                         




My Crew In Vegas                                                                                                 Hot Import Nights Tour - Toyo Booth

                                


                                                                                                                           






                                                                                               

12 basic tips to clean a car correctly

If your 're itching to get out in the warm sunshine and clean up your car, hold it right there. Charging ahead without the proper know-how can literally ruin your investment. Here are a dozen tips that will help ensure your success:

Forget the tan

Wash your car in a carport or shaded area. Direct sun dries the soap too quickly, spotting the paint. It also bakes on the wax so the finish cannot absorb it properly.

Quick list of supplies

Before starting to clean, make sure all supplies are at hand. Don't run out after starting the job. First things first-don't forget to hose down the entire vehicle first. By doing this removes most dirt first.

Metal or plastic

Before washing that shiny trim, know what it is.

Wash plastic

Coated aluminum and chrome plastic with car wash soap. Uncoated polished aluminum or stainless needs a metal polish. Chrome steel can be cleaned with a chrome polish.

It's the little things

When washing and waxing, don't forget the little details, like the inside of the gas cap door and the doorjambs.

Crying "fowl"

Bird droppings, tree sap, and bug splatters are highly acidic and therefore tough on your paint. They're also usually hard to remove. Get them off ASAP with a product especially formulated for this job.

Slippery topics

Dish detergent is for dishes. Floor cleaner is for floors. Car washing soap is for cars. Anything else could damage the paint.

When all else fails

Carefully read and follow the directions on each product you use. Failure to do so could result in a mistake that's impossible to reverse.

Fighting water with water

To rinse your car, hold the hose over the roof and let the water flow over the car's surface. The sheeting action removes more soap and water than spraying and helps to eliminate spotting.

Throwing in the towel

Use towels made of 100% terry cloth or 100% cotton diapers. Wash them in liquid laundry detergent. Avoid liquid softeners.

Dry up

When drying your car, hold the towel at both ends and drape it over the wet surface. Pull it over the surface toward you. Use a wet/dry vacuum to dry cracks and crevices.

Wax on-wax off

Apply wax to the pad, not the car first. Follow manufacturer's application instructions. Remove wax using long, straight strokes. When then cloth drags, turn it over. Use a smaller, similar motion for polishing.

 

Show Detailing
and the
Basics of Show Car Care

This article is designed to educate the novice on auto detailing and provide concourse quality detailing tips.

The Basics

Auto detailing is the process of making an automobile look its best without major dismantling or repainting. But, detailing is much more than a quick wash and vacuuming. Detailing requires careful planning and methods. Today's car detailing is an art.

The following is an overview of proven professional tips and some little secrets learned over the years.

Washing

Wheels and Tires

Polishing

Waxing

Glass, Trim and Moldings

Engine Compartment

Other Show Details and Tips

I personally hope this article helps in your detailing efforts. I did hold back a few secrets since my car still competes, but this article will get you well on your way to professional detailing. On our web site is a complete list of some of the commercial products we use on our show car.

Please feel free to contact us as well.

 

 

ACID RAIN or WATER SPOTS and PAINT: Don't MIX

 

What is acid rain, water spots and what is the difference between them? Both can occur on your car's paint finish from a little dew, rainfall or mist from sprinklers. The difference between the two is the damage each create and the difficulty to remove to sometimes impossible.

 

Water spotting is the less of the two evils here. Water spots leave a film of the droplet area, which had contained salts and rust chemicals when the water dried. Thus after drying, the chemicals etch the paint, leaving an irregular ring on the paint surface. To remove these, you must first wash (use car soap) and dry the vehicle, then follow with a premium polish and wax. For the harder spots use a small amount of white vinegar on a cloth wipe then wipe the area (small section at a time). Following again wash, dry and polish and wax. If you follow the above steps and the spots do not come out or they are not removed, then you may want to consult a professional detailer. Most likely they are not water spots, but acid rain damage.

 

Acid rain has been blamed for killing lakes and trees, it has found another target‑paint on cars. Acid rain is largely created from emissions sulfur dioxide and nitrogen dioxide are discharged from factories, fossil fuel burning power plants and the internal combustion engines and are altered in the atmosphere. Here the compounds turn into sulfuric acid and nitric acid, which then can travel hundreds of miles before they fall to earth as rain, snow or dust particles. When mixed with a little dew, rain, snow or water mist from yard sprinklers you now have a mixture of Sufic acid on your car's paint finish. I f left on the surface the moisture evaporates and the acid remains. Concentrated by sunlight, the sulfuric acid can become so strong that it will "eat" (etch) through a car's finish. Typical acid rain damage may first look like water droplets (spots, here you must know the difference). Once the damage occurs, it cannot be removed, repaired by just washing. And it is particularly mot correctable on vehicles that have dark or metallic finishes. In some cases, damages appear as a white or black ring with a dull center. Severe cases show pitting and can etch to the bare metal.

 

"In the United States, the acid rain problem for cars appears most severe in the northeast and southeast, although problems have been reported elsewhere," said Mr. Gallagher, a Du Pont official. "It varies in severity depending on time of year, weather and location," he said. "One day you could have a problem, one year you could have a problem and other times you won't."

 

Minor acid rain damage can be repaired. First rinse the vehicle and apply a diluted solution of the paint‑safe alkaline solution. Let it soak for five minutes. This neutralization the residual acid is critical. If the acid residue is not neutralized, acid damage can reoccur when the surface gets wet again. Second once the surface is neutralized, rinse and dry the vehicle. Then use an intermediate polish to buff the surface smooth. It is best to use a polish compound that is very well lubricated (oily) so that while you are buffing, you won't burn the paint (by hand or machine). Follow this with a premium wax with "acid rain protectors added". If the acid rain damage is too severe, the only recourse is to have the vehicle repainted.

 

Now we know what water spots and acid rain can do, how to tell the difference and the corrective action. How can you keep from getting water spots and acid rain? First, you want to keep your car waxed often and on a regular time frame. If the vehicle spends a lot of time outside and not garaged, you may want to wax more often. In a high acid rain area of the country - Every 2‑3 months is something you should at. But if the car is garaged and does see rain ...3‑4 month’s minimum.

 

Paint finishes (also clearcoat), are susceptible to damage from factors, as diverse as industrial discharges and bird droppings. But in the case of acid rain damage, most car industry experts say the best defense is a simple one, try to wash the car after it rains and keep the vehicle waxed often with a premium product.

 

Paul Gasparola

Professional Detailing Association member

International Carwash Association member

Z Car Club Association

 

Angela Brown

Ferrari Club of America member

Professional Detailing Association member

International Carwash Association member

 

ã 2001 Paul Gasparola – Angela Brown – Avalon Racing

 

Basic Degreasing and Engine Compartment Detail


OK - This is just Part 1 - This does not cover advanced detailing and concourse preparation. I will have those articles soon.

Engines are typically viewed as focal points for most automobiles. Just about every car show will feature entries with hoods up. Engine detailing is the way to go here. So if the automobile is a daily driver or a regular used car arena, owners must also be keenly aware of what they are doing when detailing engine compartments in the antique, classic, and specialty car segments. This is critically important for owners of machines, especially if they have ever had intentions of entering concourse competitions.

Detailing an engine compartment is different from washing the exterior of a vehicle. Dirt, grease, and oil are more difficult to remove. This calls for stronger cleaning solutions and different methods. On the other hand, knowledge of the engine components material, surface, which is sensitive to these stronger cleaning solutions are a critical part of cleaning an engine. Major damage can occur to the engine, which could end up being a great cost to you, so it's worth taking extra caution, and time for preparation and using the correct chemicals for the vehicle at hand.

Many different materials and chemicals are needed to detail an engine and the engine compartment. The selection of the materials really depends upon the amount of dirt there is.
The following list is commonly used to clean and degrease an engine. But keep in mind this is your basic detail and not specialized concourse which requires altogether different materials and detailing procedures.


cosmoline remover
heavy-duty engine degreaser (water-based)
citric extract cleaner
plastic bags
toothbrush (brass)
plastic wrap
zip ties
hand towels & clean rags
metal polish
masking tape
(2) 1-gallon hand pump chemical sprayer for the proper chemicals and one for water
duct tape
freezer bags
50/50 water & baking soda
rubber dressing
aluminum foil

Get with an auto detailer (Concourse Pro) to determine the best products for you. Our web site has the products we use on the show car.

Degreasing motors and parts no longer require harsh solvents and wire brushes. Citric extract cleaners have revolutionized grease removal. The use of cosmoline remover, citric cleaner and water based degreasers accompanied by a selection of specialized detail brushes and water will efficiently maintain every square of the engine compartment, including the plastic and rubber.

Most automobile owners and even professional detail departments have always relied on pressurized steam for quick, intensive grease removal but this method leaves a lot to be desired. Forced steam removes oil and grease without discrimination. It can cause all kinds of electrical problems by seeping into wiring harnesses, ignition caps, spark plug leads and battery connections, just to name a few . Most people do not realize that steam cleaning can actually remove the paint from the engine block, structural braces and surrounding fire wall parts. It is not uncommon to have to re-apply glazes, sealant and gasket material. There is no easy way out. Strong solvents, household bleach, acid and steam heat are not solutions for degreasing the engine or undercarriage of the car. The above mentioned products can also pit and damage the surface of the metal.

Number of spray on engine cleaners, all purpose cleaners, and even plain soap and water all do an excellent job in detailing under the hood. They tend to degrease the engine and its components, rather than strip them of paint. When you chemically clean under the hood (rather than steam clean), repainting is minimized. With chemicals, you do the degreasing largely by hand. That, in itself, poses an environmental problem. Driveway detailing, involving engine degreasing, is illegal in some areas unless, of course, you have some way of disposing of the grease, solvents, and oily wastewater other than letting them drain to the curb.

We need to look at the work site considerations. The fundamental cleaning of engine compartments most often require use of high water pressure and potent cleaners, you must be concerned about greasy, polluted run-off into store drains and sewers. With this in mind, consider a drain mat prior to greasing. This is done very simply by a heavy mil plastic mat with a raised edge around 2x4 boarder at least 2 foot larger than the car. Drive onto the mat. Now all degreasing can take place. When the wet work is done, a shop vacuum can remove the liquids which can then be transferred into containers for proper disposal.

Protecting the electrical and fuel systems is a critical part of cleaning an engine compartment. Major damage can occur if components are not protected. Use the above material list to aid you. Use a freezer bag or seal a plastic bag with duct tape to have complete water protection on such items as carburetor, distributor cap, and other electrical parts. Valve cover breathers should be removed, and holes in the valve covers can be covered with duct tape.

The hardest components to wet-proof are the spark plugs. One way to make quick work of wet proofing spark plugs is to shape an aluminum foil barrier around each plug or coil connector, then overlay the foil with two or three layers of towels or diapers. Or you can disconnect the electrical harness around each plug. But be absolutely sure you number each harness wire and the plug it belongs to with masking tape and waterproof marker. Fuel injected vehicles; important thing is to seal the engine air intake. Seal the open end of the air box with a towel and a plastic freezer bag.

This is a good time, if needed, to clean the battery. It can be an eyesore if dirty and corroded. They battery should be cleaned with a 50/50 solution of baking soda and water (this cuts acid) then pour the solution onto the top of the battery covering, terminals, and caps. With a nylon brush, scrub the surface and rinse off the corrosion with the solution. Rinse the battery and the tray with a garden hose. Use low pressure taking care not to remove the labels, or letting the solution splash on the exterior body panels. Remember that you are dealing with battery acid The initial cleaning of an engine will require a degreaser, paint brush, soap, an old wash mitt, hand pump sprayer and clean towels and rags.
CAUTION: follow the directions on a product's label carefully. To best apply the degreaser is to placed the chemical in the hand pump sprayer and work systematically around the engine itself. Then spray the chemical cleaner on the firewall, inner fenders and frame. These areas collect grime at about the same rate as the engine. Use a toothbrush and/or other brushes to loosen grime while the degreaser is working (soak time 10 -20 minutes). During the chemical time, with a soap and water mixture, along with a citric cleaner, clean underside of the hood. Use caution here as not to wet the hood insulation if your car has it.

This section mat not apply to the weekend warrior - use caution here:

Now it is time to rinse the area with water, using a high pressure washer (1300 -1800 PSI). First low pressure, rinse the outside panels of the vehicle - fenders, windshield, cowel and etc. This is to prevent greaser splash in the paint. Thoroughly rinse the underside of the hood then rinse the engine and entire engine compartment with clean water. Pay particular attention to nooks and crannies. Avoid spraying directly at the carburetor, distributor, and taped over opening. Rinse outside car again. Clean the engine and compartment with soap and water. Wash everything including the firewall, inner fenders, accessories, hoses, radiator and the engine. If stubborn grease is found - spray with citric cleaner. Then flush area again with fresh water to remove dirt, degreaser and soap suds. A cosmoline remover may also be needed at this time to finish the degreasing step. WD-40 is also a great help here.

Look at area, if any area did not come clean, repeat above steps.

If flushing is finished now, we go into the drying mode. Dry the under hood first. Dry the engine and the rest of the compartment. Use old clean towels/rags to wipe off the bulk of water. Then with a yard leaf blower remove the rest of the water tramped in pockets. Don't leave water on the engine or it will dry and form water spots when the engine gets hot. Don't use an air compressor, as it will remove stickers, paint and the like, where as a leaf blower is more gentle. Now remove all items that was used to wet-proof, and wipe dry. Start engine and run for about 5 minutes. During the time engine is running, now would be a good time with your shop vacuum to suck up all water and etc. out of the water containment barrier around the car and wipe up the grease from engine for proper disposal.

With the engine really clean, you can see some very nice enhancement of the contrast of colors and textures in the engine compartment. Now you are ready to begin the serious and fun part of engine detailing. Fun for some I should say here. Engine detailing may also require touch up paint, polishing, micro cleaning and protection products.

The degree to which an engine detailing is carried out might be divided into three basis categories:

quick degreasing and a simple once over to ready the car for sale or
a conscientious and in depth detail for a special, yet frequently driven car or
a meticulous and labor intensive perfection required for concourse competitions and show car exhibitions.
In each level more intensity of each engine detail is required. Some items will need to be replaced or re-finished for perfection. Taking the cheap way out here is a turn off to judges. Bad painting, polishing and over painting is a sure kill. To mush chrome is also a turn off.

To finish our detailing (2nd category) to the basic engine detail we must wax the painted inner fenders and the firewall, polish all chrome and aluminum parts with metal polish, treat all hoses, wiring, and soft parts with a non-silicone protestant dressing.

Some extra-special touches to put us in the 2nd category are this list.

Remove from the bolt threads the rust and/or wax or debris.
Wipe with citric cleaner spark plug wires and align in order.
insure a good plating finish by coating with a plastic spray to prevent dulling after polishing caused by engine heat
touch-up painted surfaces with correct paint and brushes
realign radiator fins
new plated hardware adds a bright touch to the engine, when replacing bolts such as those for the hood hinges, replace them one at a time so the hood remains in alignment
replace worn engine decals and information tags or re-glue old ones if they are in good shape
remove all paint overspray
linkage (metal rods) which can be polished with a 000 or 0000 steel wool with metal polish applied
wax the painted underside of the hood so it looks as good as the outside of the vehicle
In closing, of the basic engine degreasing/detailing, thorough cleaning is a critical part of engine detailing. If you are a conscientious auto enthusiast, this labor-intensive love work should only have to be conducted one time on your car. Why? Because, the work of this caliber should make you want to follow a frequent, meticulous, and cleaning schedule from here on out to prevent your engine compartment from ever getting that greasy and dirty again.

Under the Hood

In Section 1` we covered 'Basic Cleaning and Degreasing an Engine". Now, let us step into a more in depth discussion on - "In Depth Engine Cleaning". In this section, we will have more tips than instruction, for this is the bridge between basic and restoration. Some of the tips we will share will help turn out those absolutely stunning engines. Also note that at Avalon we work on more than just Z's and Angela restores for Ferrari as well as other manufacturers, so in essence, some of the tips may not apply for the Z.

NOW LETS BEGIN.....

• Cleaning some areas will stretch your ingenuity. For example, a baby bottle brush dipped in solvent or cleaner, gets into the individual cells of the radiator grille. A toothbrush and solvent gets into crevices and "wells" on the front of the engine.

• Don't use protectants on belts or pulleys: it tends to make them slippery

• Radiator and the grille: Finish detailing prescribes a spray repainting unless the radiator is chromed for most radiators and their grilles. The painting requires just a few spray can passes with high temperature engine paint (usually black, and usually flat black rather than gloss). The entire hood and fender areas around the radiator must be scrupulously masked (newspaper and masking tape work well). Anything to avoid disastrous overspray is required. And with the radiator and its grille, don't spray if there's as much as a whiff of breeze. Any breeze at all risks overspray.

• NEVER, NEVER - spray the engine compartment or any of its components with a clear lacquer, as some do it yourself (and even pro) detailers have done. Lacquer or similar finishes may look great, but drive a few miles and (1) the gleam melts with heat, as may the lacquer; (2) the once clear lacquer begins to yellow; (3) your risk of having an under hood fire is greatly increased.

• Factory engine stickers add originality. Replace worn and torn stickers with new ones.

• If hoses are black and one bursts, don't replace it with a red one. For that matter, if one broke, the other is about ready to; replace them both. Same thing applies for the radiator and vacuum hoses as well as the ignition wires. Add color to the motor. Most engines are equipped with guides for plug wires. It is usually a bracket attached to a valve cover bolt. The bracket supports a plastic piece that holds each wire in place, keeping the wires from dangling over the edge of the valve covers. Make use of such brackets to keep wires neat

• Look on the back sides of the distributor caps clips for scratches and probe into the valleys with a cotton swabs for dirt and grease. For cars without distributors, clean every crevice you can see.

• The degree of concourse perfection includes removing pieces of grit and debris from the radiator fins and straightening each fin to near perfection.

BAD IN BLACK - it is sometimes impossible to find the exact "shiny, not flat" black for some engine components. This is a different mix black than undercarriage aerosol paint. Here's the right
formula for mixing and squirting "eggshell" black lacquer:

PPG
two quarts "mixing black" #386
one quart "universal flattening agent"
one quart "mixing clear #310
use PPG #DDL 16 quick dry thinner or DuPont #3608S thinner.

As a side note we paint all our cars with Spies Hecker only.

Don't use a slow dry thinner. Stir the paint well. It will look very thin due to the clear when stirring but that isn't a problem. The final color is a perfect match.

• Many original bolts are coated in a black oxide finish, which is resistant to scratching and has a unique dull finish. To duplicate the finish, paint the bolts with flat or dull black enamel. After the bolts are dry, carry them inside the house, place them on a disposable foil cookie sheet and slide the works into the oven. Bake the bolts 25 minutes at 325 degrees. Allow the oven to cool naturally and install them.

• There are a number of under hood components that are held in place by simple sheet metal screws. If the screw hole is stripped or becomes oversize, it's impossible to tighten it. If there's room you can use a paper clip inserted in the hole to make it smaller, but how about using gold cad plated sheet metal screws like those used to secure the slick to the rim in drag racing applications.

• To help fabricate steel lines, use a coat hanger (or welding ord) as a template. This allows you to mock up the bends before you make the real thing.

• When installing equipment don't use standard "spit" lock washers. Instead, use "elastic stop nuts" or more commonly, lock nuts with nylon inserts. They do a better job, and unless they are subjected to high heat loads, never back off.

• If you want detail, don't forget about the steering components and brake parts. You can detail it on the car, but do it right, disassemble it, Or better still - have it glass beaded and reassemble it with new seals;


• If your wiring harnesses are good, but are coved with dirt, grease or overspray, use a citrus cleaner to clean them. If the engine is cosmoline ridden, use a cosmoline remover first. WD-40 will also work for the fine details. Not only will it remove dirt and grime, it will also make them more pliable. Just remember to check to see that whatever stripper you use will not harm plastic or rubber. Also, automotive electrical systems work much better with firewall and frame ground straps in place. They were in place when the car was new, so be sure to replace them.

• When draining a radiator, it can splash on everything. If you have a fluted petcock, push a 90° spark plug boot over it, and it will keep the antifreeze from splashing.

• Cheap foam brushes, found at nearly any home supply house and typically used for edging while painting your house, also make great detailing brushes when cleaning tight areas of a show car. Dipped in vinyl dressing, these handy tools become a dust magnet that will reach places that your hands won't fit.

The detailing tips and techniques here, have worked successfully for many auto enthusiasts and professional Detailers. They are not intended to be the last word in detailing, and you are encourages to try different techniques as you see fit (refer to my other articles on Ph balance and harmful chemicals).

• Polishing and waxing are important tasks that should never be taken lightly. The appearance of virtually every painted surface in an engine compartment can benefit from a bit of polish and wax, and this will go a long way toward protecting the paint finish as well. As you dive deeper and deeper into your detail project, don't be surprised if the day passes by in a flash. Many serious enthusiasts schedule entire three day weekend for nothing but engine detailing, and frequently find three days are not enough. As for me, weeks are never enough.

You see, as one part of an engine compartment perks up and stands out, others may start to look worse and worse. Before long, you might find yourself sticking bolts and screws into pieces of cardboard so you can paint them, pulling apart grille sections to clean areas underneath, dismantling fan shrouds for cleaning and to gain access to the radiator to straighten its fins, using an artist's paintbrush to touch up paint stripes inside valve cover grooves, and turning your attention to other intricate details that winning concourse veterans take for granted.

Engine Compartment Car Shows and Restorations Concourse d’ Elegance
Section #3 - Engine - Show Car Preparation and Tips
In the final section (3) the tips and tricks may give you an edge to the best in show winners if you are just starting in the car shows or a veteran. One must now look at restorations and the varying degrees will somewhat be governed by the restorer's overall expertise, time and money limits. If you wish to go all out then look at either a custom restoration or restore to original factory specifications. With the factory restoration is where the concourse winners go. So with that here are some items that may help.

If the paint on the bolts are a factory mark made by a worker to let other workers know it had been torqued and secured to factory specifications. Factory markings like those are important to concours competitors and those restoring cars to perfect factory originality. Photos taken before dismantling a restoration will serve as a reference for reapplying identical marks later.

If your engine compartment had been subjected to repeated multipurpose dressing applications on hoses wires plastic and rubber pans, chances are surrounding metal body panels are saturated with silicone dressing residue. In extreme cases silicone has been known to penetrate paint layers and impregnate the metal surfaces. This is why you do not use an Armoral type product in the engine compartment. In that situation the paint will require a fisheye eliminator additive when you repaint the engine body surfaces.

The difference between a concourse winner and a consistent fourth place finisher is generally in relation to the amount of time each person spends taking care of small details. The time and effort is rewarded with first place.

Perfect gloss and balance uniformity - To balance the appearance of hose clamps adjust each one so its screw mechanism has the same relative position as the others.

Wiring must be rooted for correct curvature boot position connection angles etc. Wires should not be blemished with any paint overspray and their gloss should be uniform and subtle.

High gloss on anything is not necessarily good for concourse. This is where a rookie concourse participant frequently makes mistakes. But at shows where the cars are customs (Ultra mods - hot rods - street rods and high customs) highly polished engines with a lot of shiny metal then glossy finishes is the norm. The use of color is more important than gloss.

Use a cotton swab attached to a long wooden handle like those seen in a doctor's office to remove hints of oil from along an engine gasket edge. This is truly attention to detail. These types of cotton swabs are great for reaching into extra tight spaces to remove traces of dirt or oil just before judging time.

The heavy cloth covers over hoses on some cars tend to fade into light brown color in time. A small amount of black shoe polish applied and rubbed in with a soft toothbrush brings the material back to a pleasant and uniform black finish.

Notice the number of very small parts located throughout the engine compartment. From plastic knobs on top of the injectors/carburetors to hose clamps, there are a multitude of parts that must be cleaned polished or dressed in preparation for car shows. The best to approach this type of meticulous engine compartment detail is by dividing the compartment into a series of small sections. Once one section is completed move on to another.

One thing that a detailer must have at a car show is their "Final Detail Kit". This is for the last minute touches.

In this kit it should have some of the following a plastic bag full of clean soft cloth baby diapers, an assortment of mild polish and wax products, last minute "detailer" products, wide mashing tape used to pull tint off the carpet and so forth. Some soft tooth brushes, cotton swabs, an assortment of artist's paintbrushes, touch up paint, a black tip felt marker to touch up minor scratches or blemishes on the black parts, a bucket of clear water and a cotton wash mitt works best for wiping off areas under the engine especially for those cars driven or towed in open trailer to the show. We personally carry two tackle/tool boxes full of detailing tools and three cases of detailing products for pre-show prep. These are a few items that will be handy at the show.

These are a few items to keep in mind if you are going to car shows. In-depth engine and engine compartment detailing can be fun and rewarding when it is approached with realistic expectations.

A quick power washing and light scrubbing will improve many engine compartments but those efforts are short-lived and potentially dangerous to the electrical system of the car. . Along with that hurried attempts at painting blocks and other engine parts will always look as if only a small amount of effort was put into the work and offer no more than a flavor of amateurish detailing. As you become more aware of how well your work efforts are paying off don't be surprised if you end up taking three or four days more than normal to complete a meticulous and very satisfying quality engine compartment detail.

Plan the job - take your time - enjoy yourself, whether they are for simple self-rewards car show trophies or Best of Show Concourse d'Elegance awards.

Happy Detailing…………
© 2000 Paul Gasparola and Angela Brown (Member Profession Concourse Detailers Association)

 

 

Car Window Tint Removal

 

Time: 1-3 hours


Materials: